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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} IXc Abstellgleis Trad
3
{SX} IV Alter Weg Trad
4
{SX} IV AV zur Lämmelwand Trad
5
{SX} VIIIb Balanceakt (RP) Trad

red point

6
{SX} IV Bergvariante Trad
7
{SX} IV Bergweg Trad
8
{SX} IXb Break Dance Trad
10
{SX} VIIc Eiserner Weg Trad
11
{SX} VIIIa EV zur Lämmelwand Trad
12
{SX} V Freundeweg Trad
13
{SX} Xa Harakiri Trad
14
{SX} V Herbstweg Trad
15
{SX} IV Hutweg Trad
16
{SX} Xb Kamikaze (RP) Trad

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17
{SX} III Lämmelwand Trad
18
{SX} IXa Lass die Sonne rein Trad
19
{SX} VIIb Linke Eisenwand Trad
20
{SX} Xa Master's Edge (RP) Trad

red point

21
{SX} VIIc Neue Schartenwand Trad
22
{SX} IXa Niedliche Kante (RP) Trad

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23
{SX} V Nordweg Trad
24
{SX} VIIb Osterriß Trad
25
{SX} VIIa Osterweg Trad
26
{SX} VIIIa Ostpfeiler (RP) Trad

red point

27
{SX} VIIIa Ostpfeiler direkt Trad
28
{SX} XIb Power-Action Trad
29
{SX} Xc Red Bull Trad
30
{SX} VIIa Rune Trad
31
{SX} IV Schartenkamin Trad
32
{SX} VIIb Schartenriß Trad
33
{SX} VIIc Schartenwand Trad
34

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35
{SX} Xb Science-Fiction Trad
36
{SX} VIIIa Sonnenuntergang Trad
37
{SX} VIIIc Sonnenuntergang (oU) Trad

without support

38
{SX} IXa Steinbeißerwand (RP) Trad

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39
40
{SX} II Südwestweg Trad
41
{SX} VIIIa Über 7 Brücken (RP) Trad

red point

42

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43
{SX} VIIIc Variante zur Westkante Trad
44
{SX} IXa Weiche (RP) Trad

red point

45
{SX} VIIIc Westkante Trad
46
{SX} VIIa Westverschneidung Trad
47