Site navigation

Grade search

Leaderboard

Instant PDF

KML KML

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Alter Weg
II
Trad
2 Dir. NO-Wand
VIIIb
Trad
3 Dir. SO-Weg
VIIb
Trad
4 Dir. Westwand
VIIb
Trad
5 Direkte Nordostwand (RP)

red point

VIIIb
Trad
6 Fettes Ende
Xa
Trad
7 Flaschenzug
VIIb
Trad
8 Herbstkante
VIIa
Trad
9 Herbstkante DV
VIIa
Trad
10 Letztes Problem
VIIc
Trad
11 Lymantria monacha
VIIc
Trad
12 Märzweg
IV
Trad
13 Neue Westwand (RP)

red point

VIIIb
Trad
14 Nordostwand (RP)

red point

VIIIb
Trad
15 NO-Wand
VIIIb
Trad
16 Ohne Ende
IXa
Trad
17 Quervariante
V
Trad
18 Quervariante zur Südwestwand
V
Trad
19 Rechte Westwand
VIIIa
Trad
20 SO-Weg (Weinachtweg)
VIIa
Trad
21 Südkante
VIIa
Trad
22 Südkante (oU)

without support

VIIb
Trad
23 Südostweg
VIIa
Trad
24 Südostweg (Weinachtweg)
VIIa
Trad
25 Südwestwand
VI
Trad
26 SW-Wand
VI
Trad
27 Totes Leben (RP)

red point

VIIIb
Trad
28 Var. zum Alten Weg
III
Trad
29 Var. zur Herbstkante
VIIa
Trad
30 Variante
III
Trad
31 Variante zum AW
III
Trad
32 Variante zum Südostweg (Weinachtweg)
VIIb
Trad
33 Variante zumSüdostweg
VIIa
Trad
34 Westwand
VIIa
Trad
35 Westwand direkt
VIIb
Trad
36 Westweg
VIIa
Trad