A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Bärensteinscheibe 21 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.040014, 50.942179

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Abendweg III Trad
2 Alter Weg III Trad
3 Bergweg II 3 Trad
4 Direkte Gabelweihe VIIc Trad
5 Direkte Südwestwand VI Trad
6 Gabelweihe VIIb Trad
7 Gabelweihe direkt VIIc Trad
8 Nordostwand V Trad
9 Nordweg III Trad
10 Ostkante III Trad
11 Sägebügel IV Trad
12 Südostwand IV Trad
13 Südwestwand VI Trad
14 Uhrwurm VIIIa Trad
15 Variante zum Alten Weg IV Trad
16 Variante zum AW IV Trad
17 Variante zur Nordostwand III Trad
18 Variante zur NO-Wand III Trad
19 Variante zur Ostkante VIIa Trad
20 Variante zur Südostwand VI Trad
21 Variante zur SW-Wand VI Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
II/3 Bergweg Trad
III Abendweg Trad
Alter Weg Trad
Nordweg Trad
Ostkante Trad
Variante zur NO-Wand Trad
Variante zur Nordostwand Trad
IV Sägebügel Trad
Südostwand Trad
Variante zum AW Trad
Variante zum Alten Weg Trad
V Nordostwand Trad
VI Direkte Südwestwand Trad
Südwestwand Trad
Variante zur SW-Wand Trad
Variante zur Südostwand Trad
VIIa Variante zur Ostkante Trad
VIIb Gabelweihe Trad
VIIc Direkte Gabelweihe Trad
Gabelweihe direkt Trad
VIIIa Uhrwurm Trad