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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.



Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
VIIa * Alter Weg Mixed 1

FA: Lutz Diestel & J. Kopplow, 1965

VIIIa Das Gemüse (RP) Mixed 2

red point

FA: Carsten Beichler & T. Beichler, 1994

IXa Dreifarbiges A Mixed 2

FA: Ekkehard Ullmann, M. Krause, A. Hanke, G. Nitsche & R. Rabe, 1989

VIIb EV zum Alten Weg Mixed 1

FA: Lutz Diestel, 1965

VIIIa Osterweg Mixed 1

FA: Erich Fröde, H. Walther, B. Grötzschel, G.-U. Müller & H. H. Wießner, 1974

VIIb Schartenweg Trad

FA: Erich Nagel, E. Lindenthal & O. Hubert, 1932

VIIc Südkante Mixed 1

FA: Günter Hänsel & E. Fröde, 1962

VIIIa Südwestwand (RP) Mixed 1

red point

FA: Manfred Vogel & H. Heller, 1976

VIIa Talweg Trad

FA: Helmut Claus, H. Böhmer & G. Pöhler, 1947

VIIc Talweg (oU) Trad

without support

FA: Helmut Claus, H. Böhmer & G. Pöhler, 1947


FA: Helmut Claus & H. Böhmer, 1947

VI Westkante Trad

FA: Ernst Lindenthal, E. Nagel & O. Hubert, 1932


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