Bärensteinwächter Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Bärensteinwächter 13 routes in Cliff



All Trad climbing

Long/Lat: 14.042630, 50.940540

Access Issues

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at .

inherited from Sächsische Schweiz


You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
inherited from Sächsische Schweiz
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg VIIa Mixed 1
2 AV zum Alten Weg

FA: Lutz Diestel & J. Kopplow, 6 Jun

VIIa Trad
3 Das Gemüse (RP)

red point

FA: Carsten Beichler & T. Beichler, 1994

VIIIa Mixed 2
4 Dreifarbiges A

FA: Ekkehard Ullmann, M. Krause, A. Hanke, G. Nitsche & R. Rabe, 1989

IXa Mixed 2
5 EV zum Alten Weg

FA: Lutz Diestel, 4 Jun

VIIb Mixed 1
6 Osterweg

FA: Erich Fröde, H. Walther, B. Grötzschel, G.-U. Müller & H. H. Wießner, 1974

VIIIa Mixed 1
7 Schartenweg

FA: Erich Nagel, E. Lindenthal & O. Hubert, 4 Jul

VIIb Trad
8 Südkante

FA: Günter Hänsel & E. Fröde, 10 Jun

VIIc Mixed 1
9 Südwestwand (RP)

red point

FA: Manfred Vogel & H. Heller, 1976

VIIIa Mixed 1
10 Talweg

FA: Helmut Claus, H. Böhmer & G. Pöhler, 4 Oct

VIIa Trad
11 Talweg (oU)

without support

FA: Helmut Claus, H. Böhmer & G. Pöhler, 4 Oct

VIIc Trad
12 Variante zum Schartenweg

FA: Helmut Claus & H. Böhmer, 4 Oct

VIIb Trad
13 Westkante

FA: Ernst Lindenthal, E. Nagel & O. Hubert, 4 Jul

VI Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
VI Westkante Trad
VIIa AV zum Alten Weg Trad
Alter Weg Mixed 1
Talweg Trad
VIIb EV zum Alten Weg Mixed 1
Schartenweg Trad
Variante zum Schartenweg Trad
VIIc Südkante Mixed 1
Talweg (oU) Trad
VIIIa Das Gemüse (RP) Mixed 2
Osterweg Mixed 1
Südwestwand (RP) Mixed 1
IXa Dreifarbiges A Mixed 2