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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
VIIc 1.Advent Trad
2
IXb 80er Trip Trad
3
II Abendweg Trad
4
I ** Alter Weg Trad 15m
5
VIIIb Amulett Trad
6

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7

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8
VIIa Ausverkauf (RP) Trad

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10
II Baumschule Trad
11
VIIb Biathlon Trad
13
VIIc Erste Mahnung Trad
14
VIIc Erster Advent Trad
16
18
VIIc Fallender Stein Trad
19
VIIIa Frankenneigung Trad
20
VIIb Gleiche Idee Trad
21
VIIc Götzingerwand Trad
22
I Gratweg Trad
23
VIIc Herbstanfang Trad
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III Himmelfahrt Trad
26
VI Kalte Ohren Trad
27
28
III Kreuzweg Trad
29
VIIc Kuckucksei Trad
30
31
VIIIa Kurz und knapp Trad
33
34
IXb Mahnbescheid Trad
35
III Märzweg Trad
36
VIIIc Neuer Standpunkt Trad
37
III Nischenweg Trad
38
III Nordostweg Trad
39
III Nordwestweg Trad
40
VIIc Octopus Trad
41
VIIc Orakel Trad
42
IV Osterweg Trad
43
IV Ostwand Trad
45
III Ostweg Trad
48
V Pfingstweg Trad
49
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IXa Standpunkt Trad
54
IV Südkamin Trad
55
IV ** Südostkante Trad 30m
56
III ** Südpfeiler Trad 25m
57
IV Südweg Trad
58
VI SV-Weg Trad
59
VIIIc Tentakel Trad
60
II Tunnelweg Trad
61

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71
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V Winkelweg Trad
73
VIIIb Wintermärchen Trad
74
VIIb Zeit zum Lernen Trad

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