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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX VIIc 1.Advent Trad
2
SX IXb 80er Trip Trad
3
SX II Abendweg Trad
4
SX I Alter Weg Trad
5
SX VIIIb Amulett Trad
6

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7
SX Xa Ausklang (RP) Trad

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8
SX VIIa Ausverkauf (RP) Trad

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9
SX VIIb AV zum Herbstanfang Trad
10
SX II Baumschule Trad
11
SX VIIb Biathlon Trad
13
SX VIIc Erste Mahnung Trad
14
SX VIIc Erster Advent Trad
16
SX II EV zum Gratweg Trad
17
18
SX VIIc Fallender Stein Trad
19
SX VIIIa Frankenneigung Trad
20
SX VIIb Gleiche Idee Trad
21
SX VIIc Götzingerwand Trad
22
SX I Gratweg Trad
23
SX VIIc Herbstanfang Trad
24
SX Xa Herbstsinfonie Trad
25
SX III Himmelfahrt Trad
26
SX VI Kalte Ohren Trad
27
SX VI Kälteeinbruch Trad
28
SX III Kreuzweg Trad
29
SX VIIc Kuckucksei Trad
30
SX VIIc Kulturnachmittag Trad
31
SX VIIIa Kurz und knapp Trad
32
SX V Letzter Husten Trad
33
SX VI Lockwitzer Weg Trad
34
SX IXb Mahnbescheid Trad
35
SX III Märzweg Trad
36
SX VIIIc Neuer Standpunkt Trad
37
SX III Nischenweg Trad
38
SX III Nordostweg Trad
39
SX III Nordwestweg Trad
40
SX VIIc Octopus Trad
41
SX VIIc Orakel Trad
42
SX IV Osterweg Trad
43
SX IV Ostwand Trad
44
SX V Ostwand direkt Trad
45
SX III Ostweg Trad
46
SX V Pfeilervariante Trad
48
SX V Pfingstweg Trad
49
SX V Schartenriß Trad
52
SX VI Spätsommerweg Trad
53
SX IXa Standpunkt Trad
54
SX IV Südkamin Trad
55
SX IV Südostkante Trad
56
SX III Südpfeiler Trad
57
SX IV Südweg Trad
58
SX VI SV-Weg Trad
59
SX VIIIc Tentakel Trad
60
SX II Tunnelweg Trad
61

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67
71
SX IV Von ganz unten Trad
72
SX V Winkelweg Trad
73
SX VIIIb Wintermärchen Trad
74
SX VIIb Zeit zum Lernen Trad