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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} VIIc 1.Advent Trad
2
{SX} IXb 80er Trip Trad
3
{SX} II Abendweg Trad
4
{SX} I Alter Weg Trad
5
{SX} VIIIb Amulett Trad
6
{SX} IXa Amulett direkt (RP) Trad

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7
{SX} Xa Ausklang (RP) Trad

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8
{SX} VIIa Ausverkauf (RP) Trad

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9
{SX} VIIb AV zum Herbstanfang Trad
10
{SX} II Baumschule Trad
11
{SX} VIIb Biathlon Trad
12
{SX} VIIc direkte Zeit zum Lernen Trad
13
{SX} VIIc Erste Mahnung Trad
14
{SX} VIIc Erster Advent Trad
16
{SX} II EV zum Gratweg Trad
17
{SX} IV EV zur Südostkante Trad
18
{SX} VIIc Fallender Stein Trad
19
{SX} VIIIa Frankenneigung Trad
20
{SX} VIIb Gleiche Idee Trad
21
{SX} VIIc Götzingerwand Trad
22
{SX} I Gratweg Trad
23
{SX} VIIc Herbstanfang Trad
24
{SX} Xa Herbstsinfonie Trad
25
{SX} III Himmelfahrt Trad
26
{SX} VI Kalte Ohren Trad
27
{SX} VI Kälteeinbruch Trad
28
{SX} III Kreuzweg Trad
29
{SX} VIIc Kuckucksei Trad
30
{SX} VIIc Kulturnachmittag Trad
31
{SX} VIIIa Kurz und knapp Trad
32
{SX} V Letzter Husten Trad
33
{SX} VI Lockwitzer Weg Trad
34
{SX} IXb Mahnbescheid Trad
35
{SX} III Märzweg Trad
36
{SX} VIIIc Neuer Standpunkt Trad
37
{SX} III Nischenweg Trad
38
{SX} III Nordostweg Trad
39
{SX} III Nordwestweg Trad
40
{SX} VIIc Octopus Trad
41
{SX} VIIc Orakel Trad
42
{SX} IV Osterweg Trad
43
{SX} IV Ostwand Trad
44
{SX} V Ostwand direkt Trad
45
{SX} III Ostweg Trad
46
{SX} V Pfeilervariante Trad
48
{SX} V Pfingstweg Trad
49
{SX} V Schartenriß Trad
50
{SX} III Schneiderlochvariante Trad
51
{SX} Xa Senkrechter Ausstieg Trad
52
{SX} VI Spätsommerweg Trad
53
{SX} IXa Standpunkt Trad
54
{SX} IV Südkamin Trad
55
{SX} IV Südostkante Trad
56
{SX} III Südpfeiler Trad
57
{SX} IV Südweg Trad
58
{SX} VI SV-Weg Trad
59
{SX} VIIIc Tentakel Trad
60
{SX} II Tunnelweg Trad
61
{SX} VIIIa Über vier Wände (RP) Trad

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62
{SX} IV Variante für Steffi Trad
64
65
67
{SX} III Variante zum SV-Weg Trad
70
71
{SX} IV Von ganz unten Trad
72
{SX} V Winkelweg Trad
73
{SX} VIIIb Wintermärchen Trad
74
{SX} VIIb Zeit zum Lernen Trad