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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Alter Weg
II
Trad
2 Aufruhr in den Augen
VIIIb
Trad
3 Auftakt
VIIc
Trad
4 Augenweide
VIIb
Trad
5 Bärchen
VIIa
Trad
6 Bärenkralle
IXb
Trad
7 Bärennummer
VIIIb
Trad
8 Bärentanz
VIIc
Trad
9 Bärentöter
Xa
Trad
10 Brummbär
VIIb
Trad
11 Dacherl
VIIc
Trad
12 Dachluke
VIIc
Trad
13 Direkter Auftakt
VIIc
Trad
14 Einakter
VIIIb
Trad
15 Eiskalte Leidenschaft
VIIIc
Trad
16 Fingergymnastik
VIIIc
Trad
17 Ghettogospel (RP)

red point

IXb
Trad
18 Grizzly (RP)

red point

VIIIc
Trad
19 Gummibär
VIIIa
Trad
20 Halbmond
VIIb
Trad
21 Himmelfahrtsweg
V
Trad
22 Höllenvariante
I
Trad
23 Kein Problem
VI
Trad
24 Kleines Problem
VIIa
Trad
25 Meridian
VIIc
Trad
26 Mittelweg
III
Trad
27 Nachtpartie
VIIa
Trad
28 Naundorfer Weg
VI
Trad
29 Nordostwand
VI
Trad
30 Nordostweg
VI
Trad
31 Nordriß
VI
Trad
32 Nordwestverschneidung
V
Trad
33 Rückblick
VIIc
Trad
34 Talweg
VIIa
Trad
35 Teddy auf Reisen
VIIIb
Trad
36 Tiefblick
VIIb
Trad
37 Trockener Weg
VIIb
Trad
38 Variante zum Alten Weg
III
Trad
39 Variante zum Nordriß
VIIb
Trad
40 Variante zum Versteckten Weg
I
Trad
41 Variante zur Nordwestverschneidung
V
Trad
42 Vaters Idee
VIIIb
Trad
43 Versteckter Weg
II
Trad
44 Westriß
III
Trad
45 Westweg
VI
Trad
46 Wildpfad (RP)

red point

VIIIa
Trad
47 Wildwechsel
Xa
Trad