Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX VIIIa Abendsonne Trad
2
SX VIIc Abendwand Trad
3
SX II Alter Weg Trad
4
SX IXa AV zur Abendwand Trad
5
SX VIIc Bergarbeiterriß Trad
6
SX IXa Deimos Trad
7
SX IXa Direkte Abendwand Trad
9
SX XIb Fiasko Trad
10
SX VIIb Gebogener Riß Trad
11
SX IV Gratweg Trad
12
SX VIIIb Grauer Riß Trad
13
SX IXc Kante im Riegelhof Trad
14
SX III Kurzer Weg Trad
15
SX II Leichter Weg Trad
16
SX IXc Letzer Ausweg Trad
17
SX III Nordkamin Trad
18
SX VI Nordwinkel Trad
19
SX VIIIc Phobos Trad
20
SX VI Querrippe Trad
21
SX V Querweg Trad
22
SX VIIb Querweg (oU) Trad

without support

23
SX IXb Räuberleiter Trad
24
SX VIIa Reibungszauber Trad
25
SX VIIc Reibungszauber (oU) Trad

without support

26
SX II Schartenweg Trad
27
SX VIIIb Schleichpfad Trad
28
SX Xc Sniper (RP) Trad

red point

29
SX VIIIc Studentenriß Trad
30
SX VIIIc Studentenriß direkt Trad
31
SX V Südpfeiler Trad
32
SX VIIb Südriß Trad
33
SX VIIb Südweg Trad
34
SX VI Südwestriß Trad
35
SX VIIa Südwestriß (oU) Trad

without support

36
SX V Südwestweg Trad
37
SX VIIIc Tenkeszberger Tour Trad
42
SX V Winkelweg Trad