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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
VIIIa Abendsonne Trad
2
VIIc Abendwand Trad
3
II Alter Weg Trad
5
6
IXa Deimos Trad
9
XIb Fiasko Trad
10
VIIb Gebogener Riß Trad
11
IV Gratweg Trad
12
VIIIb Grauer Riß Trad
14
III Kurzer Weg Trad
15
II Leichter Weg Trad
16
IXc Letzer Ausweg Trad
17
III Nordkamin Trad
18
VI Nordwinkel Trad
19
VIIIc Phobos Trad
20
VI Querrippe Trad
21
V Querweg Trad
22
VIIb Querweg (oU) Trad

without support

23
IXb Räuberleiter Trad
24
VIIa Reibungszauber Trad
25

without support

26
II Schartenweg Trad
27
VIIIb Schleichpfad Trad
28
Xc Sniper (RP) Trad

red point

29
VIIIc Studentenriß Trad
31
V Südpfeiler Trad
32
VIIb Südriß Trad
33
VIIb Südweg Trad
34
VI Südwestriß Trad
35

without support

36
V Südwestweg Trad
37
42
V Winkelweg Trad

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