A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Conradturm 42 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.043851, 50.947130

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Abendsonne {SX} VIIIa Trad
2 Abendwand {SX} VIIc Trad
3 Alter Weg {SX} II Trad
4 AV zur Abendwand {SX} IXa Trad
5 Bergarbeiterriß {SX} VIIc Trad
6 Deimos {SX} IXa Trad
7 Direkte Abendwand {SX} IXa Trad
8 Direkter Studentenriß {SX} IXa Trad
9 Fiasko {SX} XIb Trad
10 Gebogener Riß {SX} VIIb Trad
11 Gratweg {SX} IV Trad
12 Grauer Riß {SX} VIIIb Trad
13 Kante im Riegelhof {SX} IXc Trad
14 Kurzer Weg {SX} III Trad
15 Leichter Weg {SX} II Trad
16 Letzer Ausweg {SX} IXc Trad
17 Nordkamin {SX} III Trad
18 Nordwinkel {SX} VI Trad
19 Phobos {SX} VIIIc Trad
20 Querrippe {SX} VI Trad
21 Querweg {SX} V Trad
22 Querweg (oU)

without support

{SX} VIIb Trad
23 Räuberleiter {SX} IXb Trad
24 Reibungszauber {SX} VIIa Trad
25 Reibungszauber (oU)

without support

{SX} VIIc Trad
26 Schartenweg {SX} II Trad
27 Schleichpfad {SX} VIIIb Trad
28 Sniper (RP)

red point

{SX} Xc Trad
29 Studentenriß {SX} VIIIc Trad
30 Studentenriß direkt {SX} VIIIc Trad
31 Südpfeiler {SX} V Trad
32 Südriß {SX} VIIb Trad
33 Südweg {SX} VIIb Trad
34 Südwestriß {SX} VI Trad
35 Südwestriß (oU)

without support

{SX} VIIa Trad
36 Südwestweg {SX} V Trad
37 Tenkeszberger Tour {SX} VIIIc Trad
38 Variante zum Nordkamin {SX} V Trad
39 Variante zum Reibungszauber {SX} VIIb Trad
40 Variante zum Winkelweg {SX} V Trad
41 Vollständige Abendwand {SX} IXa Trad
42 Winkelweg {SX} V Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
II Alter Weg Trad
Leichter Weg Trad
Schartenweg Trad
III Kurzer Weg Trad
Nordkamin Trad
IV Gratweg Trad
V Querweg Trad
Südpfeiler Trad
Südwestweg Trad
Variante zum Nordkamin Trad
Variante zum Winkelweg Trad
Winkelweg Trad
VI Nordwinkel Trad
Querrippe Trad
Südwestriß Trad
VIIa Reibungszauber Trad
Südwestriß (oU) Trad
VIIb Gebogener Riß Trad
Querweg (oU) Trad
Südriß Trad
Südweg Trad
Variante zum Reibungszauber Trad
VIIc Abendwand Trad
Bergarbeiterriß Trad
Reibungszauber (oU) Trad
VIIIa Abendsonne Trad
VIIIb Grauer Riß Trad
Schleichpfad Trad
VIIIc Phobos Trad
Studentenriß Trad
Studentenriß direkt Trad
Tenkeszberger Tour Trad
IXa AV zur Abendwand Trad
Deimos Trad
Direkte Abendwand Trad
Direkter Studentenriß Trad
Vollständige Abendwand Trad
IXb Räuberleiter Trad
IXc Kante im Riegelhof Trad
Letzer Ausweg Trad
Xc Sniper (RP) Trad
XIb Fiasko Trad