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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1
VIIb 11 Uhr 11 Trad 10m
3
I Alter Weg Trad 10m
4
VIIa Angebouldert Trad 10m
5
III Ausstiegsvariante Trad 10m
6
III AV zum Südweg Trad 10m
7
VIIb Dißt Trad 10m
8
IV EV zum Südweg Trad 10m
9
I Fußläufiger Weg Trad 10m
10
VI Grau in grau Trad 10m
11
VIIa Grüne Weihnacht Trad 10m
12
III Jungfernstiege Trad 10m
13
I Leichter Weg Trad 10m
14
VIIa Minirock Trad 10m
15
III Mittelweg Trad 10m
16
V Nordkante Trad 10m
17
IV Nordostwand Trad 10m
18
I Ostkante Trad 10m
19
VIIa Panik (RP) Trad 10m

red point

20
III 1 Pfingstweg Trad 10m
21
VIIc Strammes Hinterteil Trad 10m
22
III Südweg Trad 10m
23
III Südweg mit AV Trad 10m
24
V Talweg Trad 10m
25
VIIb Über die Wampe Trad 10m
26
VIIb Übergewicht Trad 10m
27
VIIb Übergewicht (oU) Trad 10m

without support

28
VIIa Übers Doppelkinn Trad 10m
29
V Vorblockkante Trad 10m
30
I Weiberfährte Trad 10m
31
III Westweg Trad 10m
32
VIIa Ziegenbock Trad 10m

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