Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} VI Alte Hasen Trad
2
{SX} I Alter Weg Trad
3
{SX} VIIb Aufruhr in den Augen Trad
4
{SX} VIIa Bauchwälzer Trad
5
{SX} II Bergweg Trad
6
{SX} VIIc Boulderabend Trad
7
{SX} VIIa DA Trad
8
{SX} VIIa Direkte Nordwestwand Trad
9
{SX} VIIb Ersatzlösung Trad
10
{SX} VIIIa Gaunerkomödie Trad
11
{SX} VIIa Gesucht und Gefunden Trad
12
{SX} VI Im Windschatten Trad
13
{SX} VIIb Katapult Trad
14
{SX} VI Killekille Trad
15
{SX} VIIIa Kurzkrimi Trad
16
{SX} VIIa Leichte Briese Trad
17
{SX} VIIa Loserkante Trad
18
{SX} III Mäusevariante Trad
19
{SX} VIIa Mitteltrasse Trad
20
{SX} VIIb Neue Südwand Trad
21
{SX} I Nordostkamin Trad
22
{SX} III Nordostweg Trad
23
{SX} II Nordweg Trad
24
{SX} IV Nordwestriß Trad
25
{SX} V Nordwestriß (oU) Trad

without support

26
{SX} VIIa Nur für Genießer Trad
27
{SX} VIIa Oberkiefer Trad
28
{SX} V Ostkante Trad
29
{SX} I Pfeilerkamin Trad
30
{SX} V Pfeilerwand Trad
31
{SX} II Schartenweg Trad
32
{SX} 1 Sprung Trad
33
{SX} VIIa Steife Briese Trad
34
{SX} I Südkamin Trad
35
{SX} VI Südwand Trad
36
{SX} VIIIa Tatort Trad
38
{SX} VI Westkante Trad
39
{SX} VIIa Westkante (oU) Trad

without support

40
{SX} VIIa Westpfeiler Trad