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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Alte Hasen
VI
Trad
2 Alter Weg
I
Trad
3 Aufruhr in den Augen
VIIb
Trad
4 Bauchwälzer
VIIa
Trad
5 Bergweg
II
Trad
6 Boulderabend
VIIc
Trad
7 DA
VIIa
Trad
8 Direkte Nordwestwand
VIIa
Trad
9 Ersatzlösung
VIIb
Trad
10 Gaunerkomödie
VIIIa
Trad
11 Gesucht und Gefunden
VIIa
Trad
12 Im Windschatten
VI
Trad
13 Katapult
VIIb
Trad
14 Killekille
VI
Trad
15 Kurzkrimi
VIIIa
Trad
16 Leichte Briese
VIIa
Trad
17 Loserkante
VIIa
Trad
18 Mäusevariante
III
Trad
19 Mitteltrasse
VIIa
Trad
20 Neue Südwand
VIIb
Trad
21 Nordostkamin
I
Trad
22 Nordostweg
III
Trad
23 Nordweg
II
Trad
24 Nordwestriß
IV
Trad
25 Nordwestriß (oU)

without support

V
Trad
26 Nur für Genießer
VIIa
Trad
27 Oberkiefer
VIIa
Trad
28 Ostkante
V
Trad
29 Pfeilerkamin
I
Trad
30 Pfeilerwand
V
Trad
31 Schartenweg
II
Trad
32 Sprung
1
Trad
33 Steife Briese
VIIa
Trad
34 Südkamin
I
Trad
35 Südwand
VI
Trad
36 Tatort
VIIIa
Trad
37 Wand im Vorübergehen
V
Trad
38 Westkante
VI
Trad
39 Westkante (oU)

without support

VIIa
Trad
40 Westpfeiler
VIIa
Trad