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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX VI Alte Hasen Trad
2
SX I Alter Weg Trad
3
SX VIIb Aufruhr in den Augen Trad
4
SX VIIa Bauchwälzer Trad
5
SX II Bergweg Trad
6
SX VIIc Boulderabend Trad
7
SX VIIa DA Trad
8
SX VIIa Direkte Nordwestwand Trad
9
SX VIIb Ersatzlösung Trad
10
SX VIIIa Gaunerkomödie Trad
11
SX VIIa Gesucht und Gefunden Trad
12
SX VI Im Windschatten Trad
13
SX VIIb Katapult Trad
14
SX VI Killekille Trad
15
SX VIIIa Kurzkrimi Trad
16
SX VIIa Leichte Briese Trad
17
SX VIIa Loserkante Trad
18
SX III Mäusevariante Trad
19
SX VIIa Mitteltrasse Trad
20
SX VIIb Neue Südwand Trad
21
SX I Nordostkamin Trad
22
SX III Nordostweg Trad
23
SX II Nordweg Trad
24
SX IV Nordwestriß Trad
25

without support

26
SX VIIa Nur für Genießer Trad
27
SX VIIa Oberkiefer Trad
28
SX V Ostkante Trad
29
SX I Pfeilerkamin Trad
30
SX V Pfeilerwand Trad
31
SX II Schartenweg Trad
32
SX 1 Sprung Trad
33
SX VIIa Steife Briese Trad
34
SX I Südkamin Trad
35
SX VI Südwand Trad
36
SX VIIIa Tatort Trad
38
SX VI Westkante Trad
39
SX VIIa Westkante (oU) Trad

without support

40
SX VIIa Westpfeiler Trad