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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Alter Weg
III
Trad
2 Dachvariante
VIIb
Trad
3 Dachvariante zur W-Kante
VIIb
Trad
4 Direkte Talseite
VIIa
Trad
5 Eisenweg
VIIb
Trad
6 Frühlingssturm (RP)

red point

VIIIa
Trad
7 Geburtstagsweg
VIIc
Trad
8 Geburtstagsweg (oU)

without support

VIIIa
Trad
9 Gerade Variante
VIIa
Trad
10 Kantenvariante
VIIa
Trad
11 Leichtes Lüftchen
VI
Trad
12 Loblied
VIIa
Trad
13 Luftschaukel
VIIc
Trad
14 Luftschaukel (oU)

without support

VIIIb
Trad
15 Nordweg
V
Trad
16 Quervariante
VIIa
Trad
17 Rißvariante
VI
Trad
18 Rißvariante (oU)

without support

VIIa
Trad
19 Schmalspur
VI
Trad
20 Sockelweg
III
Trad
21 Sommerwind
VIIc
Trad
22 Südkante
VI
Trad
23 Südkante (oU)

without support

VIIa
Trad
24 Talseite
VI
Trad
25 Variante zur Südkante
VI
Trad
26 Von Dach zu Dach (RP)

red point

VIIIa
Trad
27 Von Griff zu Griff (RP)

red point

VIIc
Trad
28 Von Sanduhr zu Sanduhr
VIIb
Trad
29 Wandvariante
VI
Trad
30 Wandvariante (oU)

without support

VIIa
Trad
31 Westkante
VIIa
Trad
32 Westkante direkt
VIIa
Trad
33 Westweg
III
Trad