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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
VIIb Abendweg Trad
3
VIIc Alte Glut Trad
4
II Alter Weg Trad
5
VIIa Bergbrüderweg Trad
6

without support

7

red point

8
VIIc Buckelpiste Trad
9
11
VIIc Direkter Talweg Trad
12
13
VIIb EV zum Talweg Trad
14
Xc Fighter Trad
15
VIIIa Frisches Brot Trad
16
17
II Gratweg Trad
18
19
20
VIIb Höhlenmitte Trad
21
IV * Höhlenweg Trad
22
VIIc Jubiläumsweg Trad
23
VIIIa Liebling Trad
24
VIIb Mischbrot Trad
25
VIIa Neuer Weg Trad
26
27
IV Nordwand Trad
28
VI Nordweg Trad
29
VIIc Nordwestriß Trad
30
VIIIa Nordwestriß (oU) Trad

without support

31
IV Nordwestweg Trad
32
IV Osterweg Trad
33
V Ostweg Trad
34
IV Randkante Trad
35
36
37
VIIIb Sandgebäck Trad
38

red point

39
VIIa Schwarzwälder Trad
41
IXa Steinregen Trad
42
VIIb Südostriß Trad
43
III Südostweg Trad
44
VIIc Südpfeiler Trad
45
V Südweg Trad
46
VIIa Talweg Trad
47
VIIb Talweg (oU) Trad

without support

48
49
VIIc Tuchfühlung Trad
53
VIIb Westpfeiler Trad
54
IV Westweg Trad
55

without support

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