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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} VIIb Abendweg Trad
2
{SX} IXa Alles wird schlimmer Trad
3
{SX} VIIc Alte Glut Trad
4
{SX} II Alter Weg Trad
5
{SX} VIIa Bergbrüderweg Trad
6
{SX} VIIb Bergbrüderweg (oU) Trad

without support

7
{SX} VIIc Boris Bäcker (RP) Trad

red point

8
{SX} VIIc Buckelpiste Trad
9
{SX} VIIb Direkter Nordweg Trad
10
{SX} V Direkter Osterweg Trad
11
{SX} VIIc Direkter Talweg Trad
12
{SX} IXb Dschungelfieber Trad
13
{SX} VIIb EV zum Talweg Trad
14
{SX} Xc Fighter Trad
15
{SX} VIIIa Frisches Brot Trad
16
{SX} VIIa Gemeinschaftsweg Trad
17
{SX} II Gratweg Trad
18
{SX} V Graue Hirsche Trad
19
{SX} VI Herbstvariante Trad
20
{SX} VIIb Höhlenmitte Trad
21
{SX} IV Höhlenweg Trad
22
{SX} VIIc Jubiläumsweg Trad
23
{SX} VIIIa Liebling Trad
24
{SX} VIIb Mischbrot Trad
25
{SX} VIIa Neuer Weg Trad
26
{SX} V Nordostkante Trad
27
{SX} IV Nordwand Trad
28
{SX} VI Nordweg Trad
29
{SX} VIIc Nordwestriß Trad
30
{SX} VIIIa Nordwestriß (oU) Trad

without support

31
{SX} IV Nordwestweg Trad
32
{SX} IV Osterweg Trad
33
{SX} V Ostweg Trad
34
{SX} IV Randkante Trad
35
{SX} IXc Rasende Wildsau Trad
36
{SX} VIIc Rippchenvariante Trad
37
{SX} VIIIb Sandgebäck Trad
38
{SX} VIIIa Schlangentanz (RP) Trad

red point

39
{SX} VIIa Schwarzwälder Trad
40
41
{SX} IXa Steinregen Trad
42
{SX} VIIb Südostriß Trad
43
{SX} III Südostweg Trad
44
{SX} VIIc Südpfeiler Trad
45
{SX} V Südweg Trad
46
{SX} VIIa Talweg Trad
47
{SX} VIIb Talweg (oU) Trad

without support

48
{SX} VIIc Tanz im Paradies Trad
49
{SX} VIIc Tuchfühlung Trad
50
{SX} VIIIa Var. zum Bergbrüderweg Trad
51
52
{SX} VIIb Variante 2 zum Talweg Trad
53
{SX} VIIb Westpfeiler Trad
54
{SX} IV Westweg Trad
55
{SX} V Westweg (oU) Trad

without support