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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX VI AKV-Weg Trad
2
SX II Alter Weg Trad
3
SX VIIb Böse Sieben Trad
4
SX IXa Colosseum Trad
5

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6
SX VIIIb Diagonale (RP) Trad

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7

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8
SX VIIb Direkte Nordwand Trad
9
SX IXa Direkte Ostwand Trad
11
SX VIIIa Direkte Südwand (RP) Trad

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12

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13
SX VIIIc Direttissima Trad
15
SX VIIc Fritz-Schulze-Riß Trad
17
SX IXa Gelbe Wand Trad
18
SX VIIIa Gesägter Riß Trad
19
SX IXb Gladiator (RP) Trad

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20
SX Xa Gold im Sand (RP) Trad

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21
SX IXc Goldständer (RP) Trad

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22
SX VIIc Goldsteigkante Trad
23
SX Xa Goldsträhne (RP) Trad

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24
SX V Hintertür Trad
25
SX IXa Im Goldrausch (RP) Trad

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26
SX VIIc Kombination Trad
27
SX VIIc Komplette Nordwand Trad
28
SX VIIIb Kreuz des Südens Trad
29
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SX IXc Langer Tag Trad
31

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32
SX VIIc Moderne Nordwand Trad
33
SX VI Nordostweg Trad
34
SX VIIb Nordwand Trad
35
SX VIIIb Ostkante Trad
37
SX VI Ostweg Trad
38
SX IXa Outta Space (RP) Trad

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39
SX VIIIa Schapaß Trad
42
SX VIIIa Silberstreif Trad
43
SX IXa Spartacus Trad
44
SX VIIb Stollepfeiler Trad
45
SX IV Südostkamin Trad
46
SX VIIIa Südostkante Trad
47
SX VIIa Südostweg Trad
48
SX VIIc Südwand Trad
49
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SX VIIb Variante zu Nordwand Trad
52
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SX VIIIb Weiße Wand Trad
55
SX VIIIc Zeitzeichen Trad