Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} VI AKV-Weg Trad
2
{SX} II Alter Weg Trad
3
{SX} VIIb Böse Sieben Trad
4
{SX} IXa Colosseum Trad
5

red point

6
{SX} VIIIb Diagonale (RP) Trad

red point

7
{SX} VIIIb Diamonds & Pearls (RP) Trad

red point

8
{SX} VIIb Direkte Nordwand Trad
9
{SX} IXa Direkte Ostwand Trad
10
11
{SX} VIIIa Direkte Südwand (RP) Trad

red point

12

red point

13
{SX} VIIIc Direttissima Trad
15
{SX} VIIc Fritz-Schulze-Riß Trad
16
17
{SX} IXa Gelbe Wand Trad
18
{SX} VIIIa Gesägter Riß Trad
19
{SX} IXb Gladiator (RP) Trad

red point

20
{SX} Xa Gold im Sand (RP) Trad

red point

21
{SX} IXc Goldständer (RP) Trad

red point

22
{SX} VIIc Goldsteigkante Trad
23
{SX} Xa Goldsträhne (RP) Trad

red point

24
{SX} V Hintertür Trad
25
{SX} IXa Im Goldrausch (RP) Trad

red point

26
{SX} VIIc Kombination Trad
27
{SX} VIIc Komplette Nordwand Trad
28
{SX} VIIIb Kreuz des Südens Trad
29
{SX} IXa Kürzester Aufstieg Trad
30
{SX} IXc Langer Tag Trad
31
{SX} IXc Lecker Rumtopf (RP) Trad

red point

32
{SX} VIIc Moderne Nordwand Trad
33
{SX} VI Nordostweg Trad
34
{SX} VIIb Nordwand Trad
35
{SX} VIIIb Ostkante Trad
37
{SX} VI Ostweg Trad
38
{SX} IXa Outta Space (RP) Trad

red point

39
{SX} VIIIa Schapaß Trad
40
41
42
{SX} VIIIa Silberstreif Trad
43
{SX} IXa Spartacus Trad
44
{SX} VIIb Stollepfeiler Trad
45
{SX} IV Südostkamin Trad
46
{SX} VIIIa Südostkante Trad
47
{SX} VIIa Südostweg Trad
48
{SX} VIIc Südwand Trad
49
{SX} IXc Theater des Grauens Trad
50
{SX} VIIb Variante zu Nordwand Trad
52
{SX} VIIIa Wahnsinnsverschneidung Trad
53
{SX} VIIIb Weiße Wand Trad
55
{SX} VIIIc Zeitzeichen Trad