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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX I Alter Weg Trad
2
SX VIIIa Altweibersommer Trad
3
SX VIIIa Blutige Erdberen Trad
4
SX VIIa Böse Buben Trad
5
SX VI Brüchige Wand Trad
7
SX III Damenkamin Trad
8
SX VIIb Direkte Maienwand Trad
9
SX VIIc Exumierung Trad
10
SX VIIb Fernblick Trad
12
SX VIIIb Große Zschand Idylle Trad
13
SX VIIc Harte Skala Trad
14
SX VI Herrenriß Trad
15
SX VIIa Himmelfahrt Trad
16
SX VIIb Kalter Sommer Trad
17
SX VIIIb Klingelpartie Trad
18
SX VI Kluftkante Trad
19
SX III Kluftweg Trad
20
SX VIIb Maienwand Trad
21
SX IV Neuer Südweg Trad
22
SX VIIa Nordostwand Trad
23
SX III Nordostweg Trad
24
SX VIIc Nordwand Trad
25
SX I Nordweg Trad
26
SX V Notlandung Trad
27
SX IV Ostkante Trad
28
SX VIIb Ostwand Trad
29
SX VIIIa Panoramakante Trad
30
SX VIIb Runde Kante Trad
31
SX VI Schartenweg Trad
32
SX VIIa Scherbelwand Trad
33
SX VIIc Sockelkletterei Trad
34
SX IXb Stille Trad
35
SX V Südkante Trad
36
SX VIIa Südkante (oU) Trad

without support

37
SX III Südrinne Trad
38
SX III Südriß Trad
39
SX III Südweg Trad
40
SX II Südwestkamin Trad
41
SX II Südwestweg Trad
42
SX VIIc Toter Mann im Wald Trad
43
SX IV Var. zum Kluftweg Trad
44
SX VI Westkante Trad
45
SX VIIb Wildfang Trad
46
SX VIIIa Winkelweg Trad