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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} I Alter Weg Trad
2
{SX} VIIIa Altweibersommer Trad
3
{SX} VIIIa Blutige Erdberen Trad
4
{SX} VIIa Böse Buben Trad
5
{SX} VI Brüchige Wand Trad
6
{SX} VIIc DA zum Diamantenstaub Trad
7
{SX} III Damenkamin Trad
8
{SX} VIIb Direkte Maienwand Trad
9
{SX} VIIc Exumierung Trad
10
{SX} VIIb Fernblick Trad
12
{SX} VIIIb Große Zschand Idylle Trad
13
{SX} VIIc Harte Skala Trad
14
{SX} VI Herrenriß Trad
15
{SX} VIIa Himmelfahrt Trad
16
{SX} VIIb Kalter Sommer Trad
17
{SX} VIIIb Klingelpartie Trad
18
{SX} VI Kluftkante Trad
19
{SX} III Kluftweg Trad
20
{SX} VIIb Maienwand Trad
21
{SX} IV Neuer Südweg Trad
22
{SX} VIIa Nordostwand Trad
23
{SX} III Nordostweg Trad
24
{SX} VIIc Nordwand Trad
25
{SX} I Nordweg Trad
26
{SX} V Notlandung Trad
27
{SX} IV Ostkante Trad
28
{SX} VIIb Ostwand Trad
29
{SX} VIIIa Panoramakante Trad
30
{SX} VIIb Runde Kante Trad
31
{SX} VI Schartenweg Trad
32
{SX} VIIa Scherbelwand Trad
33
{SX} VIIc Sockelkletterei Trad
34
{SX} IXb Stille Trad
35
{SX} V Südkante Trad
36
{SX} VIIa Südkante (oU) Trad

without support

37
{SX} III Südrinne Trad
38
{SX} III Südriß Trad
39
{SX} III Südweg Trad
40
{SX} II Südwestkamin Trad
41
{SX} II Südwestweg Trad
42
{SX} VIIc Toter Mann im Wald Trad
43
{SX} IV Var. zum Kluftweg Trad
44
{SX} VI Westkante Trad
45
{SX} VIIb Wildfang Trad
46
{SX} VIIIa Winkelweg Trad