Site navigation

Grade search

Leaderboard

Instant PDF

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Ablängerung (RP)

red point

VIIIc
Trad
2 Alter Weg
III
Trad
3 AV zum Alten Weg
III
Trad
4 Birkenweg
IV
Trad
5 Buntsandstein (RP)

red point

Xa
Trad
6 Direkte Eisenwand
VIIc
Trad
7 Direkte Nordwestkante
VIIc
Trad
8 Direkteinstieg zur Eisenwand
IXa
Trad
9 Dunkler Winkel
V
Trad
10 Eisenwand
VIIb
Trad
11 Elfenbeinküste
VIIIb
Trad
12 Elfenjagd (RP)

red point

IXa
Trad
13 Elfenreigen
IXb
Trad
14 Elfenzauber
VIIIb
Trad
15 Erntedank
VIIc
Trad
16 EV zum Alten Weg
III
Trad
17 Fallinie
IXb
Trad
18 Feuerleiter
VIIc
Trad
19 Fred Feuerstein (RP)

red point

Xa
Trad
20 Geneigte Wand (RP)

red point

VIIc
Trad
21 Herbstnebel
VIIb
Trad
22 Hinterm Horizont
VIIIb
Trad
23 Hinterm Horizont geht`s weiter (RP)

red point

IXa
Trad
24 Kirmes
VIIa
Trad
25 Lustgarten
Xb
Trad
26 Neuer Schartenweg
VI
Trad
27 Nordostverschneidung
VIIa
Trad
28 Nordostwand (original)
VIIIa
Trad
29 Nordostweg
IV
Trad
30 Nordwestkamin
III
Trad
31 Nordwestkante
VIIc
Trad
32 Nordwestverschneidung
VI
Trad
33 Norostwand
VIIIb
Trad
34 Notnagel
IXb
Trad
35 Oberteil
VIIa
Trad
36 Ostkante
VIIb
Trad
37 Peripherie
IXc
Trad
38 Pfeilerkante
VIIIa
Trad
39 Prinz Eisenherz (RP)

red point

VIIIb
Trad
40 Rechter-Winkel-Weg
VIIb
Trad
41 Schartenweg
IV
Trad
42 Schwanengesang
VIIb
Trad
43 Separate Nordostwand
VIIIa
Trad
44 Sixpack (RP)

red point

VIIIc
Trad
45 Sonnenwendrinne
VIIc
Trad
46 Spreizweg
VI
Trad
47 Steile Kante (RP)

red point

VIIIc
Trad
48 Übergangsweg
IV
Trad
49 Wackelköpfe
VIIa
Trad
50 Westkante
VIIb
Trad
51 Winkelriß
VI
Trad
52 www.allles-Banane.de
VIIIb
Trad