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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} VIIIc Ablängerung (RP) Trad

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2
{SX} III Alter Weg Trad
3
{SX} III AV zum Alten Weg Trad
4
{SX} IV Birkenweg Trad
5
{SX} Xa Buntsandstein (RP) Trad

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6
{SX} VIIc Direkte Eisenwand Trad
7
{SX} VIIc Direkte Nordwestkante Trad
9
{SX} V Dunkler Winkel Trad
10
{SX} VIIb Eisenwand Trad
11
{SX} VIIIb Elfenbeinküste Trad
12
{SX} IXa Elfenjagd (RP) Trad

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13
{SX} IXb Elfenreigen Trad
14
{SX} VIIIb Elfenzauber Trad
15
{SX} VIIc Erntedank Trad
16
{SX} III EV zum Alten Weg Trad
17
{SX} IXb Fallinie Trad
18
{SX} VIIc Feuerleiter Trad
19
{SX} Xa Fred Feuerstein (RP) Trad

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20
{SX} VIIc Geneigte Wand (RP) Trad

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21
{SX} VIIb Herbstnebel Trad
22
{SX} VIIIb Hinterm Horizont Trad
23

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24
{SX} VIIa Kirmes Trad
25
{SX} Xb Lustgarten Trad
26
{SX} VI Neuer Schartenweg Trad
27
{SX} VIIa Nordostverschneidung Trad
28
{SX} VIIIa Nordostwand (original) Trad
29
{SX} IV Nordostweg Trad
30
{SX} III Nordwestkamin Trad
31
{SX} VIIc Nordwestkante Trad
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33
{SX} VIIIb Norostwand Trad
34
{SX} IXb Notnagel Trad
35
{SX} VIIa Oberteil Trad
36
{SX} VIIb Ostkante Trad
37
{SX} IXc Peripherie Trad
38
{SX} VIIIa Pfeilerkante Trad
39
{SX} VIIIb Prinz Eisenherz (RP) Trad

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40
{SX} VIIb Rechter-Winkel-Weg Trad
41
{SX} IV Schartenweg Trad
42
{SX} VIIb Schwanengesang Trad
43
{SX} VIIIa Separate Nordostwand Trad
44
{SX} VIIIc Sixpack (RP) Trad

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45
{SX} VIIc Sonnenwendrinne Trad
46
{SX} VI Spreizweg Trad
47
{SX} VIIIc Steile Kante (RP) Trad

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48
{SX} IV Übergangsweg Trad
49
{SX} VIIa Wackelköpfe Trad
50
{SX} VIIb Westkante Trad
51
{SX} VI Winkelriß Trad
52
{SX} VIIIb www.allles-Banane.de Trad