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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX VIIIc Ablängerung (RP) Trad

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2
SX III Alter Weg Trad
3
SX III AV zum Alten Weg Trad
4
SX IV Birkenweg Trad
5

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6
SX VIIc Direkte Eisenwand Trad
9
SX V Dunkler Winkel Trad
10
SX VIIb Eisenwand Trad
11
SX VIIIb Elfenbeinküste Trad
12
SX IXa Elfenjagd (RP) Trad

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13
SX IXb Elfenreigen Trad
14
SX VIIIb Elfenzauber Trad
15
SX VIIc Erntedank Trad
16
SX III EV zum Alten Weg Trad
17
SX IXb Fallinie Trad
18
SX VIIc Feuerleiter Trad
19

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20
SX VIIc Geneigte Wand (RP) Trad

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21
SX VIIb Herbstnebel Trad
22
SX VIIIb Hinterm Horizont Trad
23

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24
SX VIIa Kirmes Trad
25
SX Xb Lustgarten Trad
26
SX VI Neuer Schartenweg Trad
27
SX VIIa Nordostverschneidung Trad
28
29
SX IV Nordostweg Trad
30
SX III Nordwestkamin Trad
31
SX VIIc Nordwestkante Trad
33
SX VIIIb Norostwand Trad
34
SX IXb Notnagel Trad
35
SX VIIa Oberteil Trad
36
SX VIIb Ostkante Trad
37
SX IXc Peripherie Trad
38
SX VIIIa Pfeilerkante Trad
39
SX VIIIb Prinz Eisenherz (RP) Trad

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40
SX VIIb Rechter-Winkel-Weg Trad
41
SX IV Schartenweg Trad
42
SX VIIb Schwanengesang Trad
43
SX VIIIa Separate Nordostwand Trad
44
SX VIIIc Sixpack (RP) Trad

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45
SX VIIc Sonnenwendrinne Trad
46
SX VI Spreizweg Trad
47
SX VIIIc Steile Kante (RP) Trad

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48
SX IV Übergangsweg Trad
49
SX VIIa Wackelköpfe Trad
50
SX VIIb Westkante Trad
51
SX VI Winkelriß Trad
52
SX VIIIb www.allles-Banane.de Trad