A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Frühlingswand 26 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.274346, 50.907720

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg II Trad
2 Altweibersommer IV Trad
3 Bergfreundeweg VIIa Trad
4 Direkter Juliweg VI Trad
5 Herbstlied VIIa Trad
6 Jahrgang 62 VIIc Trad
7 Juliweg IV Trad
8 Kaminvariante II Trad
9 Klüftelweg I Trad
10 Löcherriß VI Trad
11 Neue Nordrinne V Trad
12 Nordrinne III Trad
13 Nordwand VIIa Trad
14 Portal VI Trad
15 Schartenkamin I Trad
16 Sommerschlussverkauf V Trad
17 Südkamin I Trad
18 Südostweg II Trad
19 Südrinne IV Trad
20 Südwestweg V Trad
21 Talweg V Trad
22 Tip IV Trad
23 Variante IV Trad
24 Variante zum Südostweg III Trad
25 Wandvariante zum Alten Weg IV Trad
26 Zugabe IV Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
I Klüftelweg Trad
Schartenkamin Trad
Südkamin Trad
II Alter Weg Trad
Kaminvariante Trad
Südostweg Trad
III Nordrinne Trad
Variante zum Südostweg Trad
IV Altweibersommer Trad
Juliweg Trad
Südrinne Trad
Tip Trad
Variante Trad
Wandvariante zum Alten Weg Trad
Zugabe Trad
V Neue Nordrinne Trad
Sommerschlussverkauf Trad
Südwestweg Trad
Talweg Trad
VI Direkter Juliweg Trad
Löcherriß Trad
Portal Trad
VIIa Bergfreundeweg Trad
Herbstlied Trad
Nordwand Trad
VIIc Jahrgang 62 Trad