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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Alter Weg
II
Trad
2 Auf der Alm
VIIc
Trad
3 Auf der Alm (oU)

without support

IXa
Trad
4 Bärenhäuter
IXa
Trad
5 Bergweg
I
Trad
6 Blockweg
VIIc
Trad
7 Bügelbrett
IXa
Trad
8 Bügeleisen
VIIIc
Trad
9 Bügeleisenkante
VIIIb
Trad
10 Direkter Südweg
VIIc
Trad
11 Gewitterweg
VI
Trad
12 Grenzpunkt Null
IXc
Trad
13 Klare Linie
VIIc
Trad
14 Neue Linie
VIIIb
Trad
15 Neuer Talweg
VIIb
Trad
16 Nordpfeiler
VIIc
Trad
17 Reibungsattacke
VIIc
Trad
18 Riesenverschneidung
VIIb
Trad
19 Riß im Winkel
VIIc
Trad
20 Rißvergnügen
VIIa
Trad
21 Robinson
IXc
Trad
22 Schartenkamin
III
Trad
23 Schartenwand
VIIc
Trad
24 Spurensuche
VIIb
Trad
25 Sternchenweg
VI
Trad
26 Südweg
VI
Trad
27 Talweg
VIIc
Trad
28 Variante zum Nordweg
VIIa
Trad
29 Variante zumAlten Weg
IV
Trad
30 Weg des Verfalls
VIIc
Trad
31 Westweg
IV
Trad