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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} II Alter Weg Trad
2
{SX} VIIc Auf der Alm Trad
3
{SX} IXa Auf der Alm (oU) Trad

without support

4
{SX} IXa Bärenhäuter Trad
5
{SX} I Bergweg Trad
6
{SX} VIIc Blockweg Trad
7
{SX} IXa Bügelbrett Trad
8
{SX} VIIIc Bügeleisen Trad
9
{SX} VIIIb Bügeleisenkante Trad
10
{SX} VIIc Direkter Südweg Trad
11
{SX} VI Gewitterweg Trad
12
{SX} IXc Grenzpunkt Null Trad
13
{SX} VIIc Klare Linie Trad
14
{SX} VIIIb Neue Linie Trad
15
{SX} VIIb Neuer Talweg Trad
16
{SX} VIIc Nordpfeiler Trad
17
{SX} VIIc Reibungsattacke Trad
18
{SX} VIIb Riesenverschneidung Trad
19
{SX} VIIc Riß im Winkel Trad
20
{SX} VIIa Rißvergnügen Trad
21
{SX} IXc Robinson Trad
22
{SX} III Schartenkamin Trad
23
{SX} VIIc Schartenwand Trad
24
{SX} VIIb Spurensuche Trad
25
{SX} VI Sternchenweg Trad
26
{SX} VI Südweg Trad
27
{SX} VIIc Talweg Trad
28
{SX} VIIa Variante zum Nordweg Trad
29
30
{SX} VIIc Weg des Verfalls Trad
31
{SX} IV Westweg Trad