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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
2
{SX} VIIb Abzweig Trad
3
{SX} VI Alpines Gelände Trad
4
{SX} II Alter Weg Trad
5
{SX} IXc Alzheimer Trad
6
{SX} VIIIa Anglerkante Trad
7
{SX} Xa Armada Trad
8
{SX} VIIa Augustinhangel Trad
10
11
{SX} VIIa AV zum Schützelweg Trad
12
{SX} VIIa AV zur Westwand Trad
14
{SX} VIIb Bergweg Trad
15
{SX} VIIc Bergweg (oU) Trad

without support

16
{SX} IXa Betäubung Trad
17
{SX} IXc Blanker Himmel (RP) Trad

red point

18
{SX} VI Blockriß Trad
19

red point

20
{SX} Xc Die Kante Trad
21
{SX} IXa Direkte Nordostwand Trad
22
{SX} IXa Direkte Westwand Trad
23
{SX} IXb Direkte Winkelkante Trad
25
{SX} VIIb direkter Nordriß Trad
26
{SX} VIIIb Direkter Osterweg Trad
27
{SX} VIIIb Direkter Pfingstweg Trad
28
{SX} IXc Distorsion Trad
29
{SX} II Dömlerweg Trad
30
{SX} Xc Druckausgleich (RP) Trad

red point

31
{SX} XIa Ebbe und Flut Trad
32
{SX} Xb Einbaum Trad
33
{SX} VIIb Eiserner Weg Trad
34
{SX} VIIc Eiserner Weg (oU) Trad

without support

35
{SX} VIIIb Examen Trad
36
{SX} VIIa Excelsiorweg Trad
37
{SX} VIIIb Fata Morgana Trad
38
{SX} VIIIa 2 Fischzug Trad
39
{SX} VIIb Fleißaufgabe Trad
40
{SX} VIIc Fleißaufgabe (oU) Trad

without support

41
{SX} VIIIb Fliegenklatsche Trad
42
{SX} Xa Fluch und Segen Trad
43
{SX} VIIIc Ganze Kante Trad
44
{SX} VIIIb Gesucht und gefunden Trad
45
{SX} IXb Gretel Trad
46
{SX} III Grüner Weg Trad
47
{SX} IXb Grünes Ungeheuer Trad
48
{SX} VIIb Halbe Kante Trad
49
{SX} IXb High Live Trad
50
{SX} VIIIc Hoher Norden Trad
51
{SX} IV Hoher Riß Trad
52
{SX} V Hoher Winkel Trad
53
{SX} Xa Hot Fourty (RP) Trad

red point

54
{SX} Xb Im Rausch der Tiefe Trad
55
{SX} IXb Jojovariante Trad
56
{SX} IXc Kein Kommentar Trad
57
{SX} IXa Kleine Inspiration Trad
58
{SX} IXc Kleiner Fisch Trad
59
{SX} Xc Kompressor Trad
60
{SX} V Kreuzweg Trad
61
{SX} IXa Libelle Trad
62
{SX} VI Märzweg Trad
63
{SX} Xa Metalmania (RP) Trad

red point

64
{SX} VI Neuer Nischenriß Trad
65
{SX} VIIc Neuer Nordpfeiler Trad
66
{SX} VIIIb Neuer Osterweg (RP) Trad

red point

67
{SX} VIIb 2 Neuer Südwestweg Trad
68

red point

69
{SX} IXa Nischenkante Trad
70
{SX} V Nischenriß Trad
71
72
{SX} VIIIb Nordostwand Trad
73
{SX} VIIIc Nordostwand (oU) Trad

without support

74
{SX} VI Nordpfeiler Trad
75
{SX} VIIb Nordriß Trad
76
{SX} VIIIa Nordwand Trad
77
{SX} IV Nordweg Trad
78
{SX} VIIIa Nordwestecke Trad
79
{SX} VIIa Nordwestweg Trad
80
{SX} VIIIb Osternest Trad
81
{SX} VIIa Osterweg Trad
82
{SX} II Ostkamin Trad
83
{SX} V Ostweg Trad
84
{SX} IXc Ozonalarm (RP) Trad

red point

85
{SX} VIIIc Perfekte Nordostwand Trad
86
{SX} VIIIc Pfeilerwand Trad
87
{SX} VI Pfeilerweg Trad
88
{SX} VIIIa Pfingstweg Trad
89
{SX} IXc Razzepimmel (RP) Trad

red point

90
{SX} Xb Rumpelstilzchen Trad
91
{SX} V Schluchtweg Trad
92
{SX} IXa Schmerzgrenze Trad
93
{SX} VIIa Schützelweg Trad
94
{SX} IXb Schwebfliege Trad
95
{SX} Xa Schweigende Gitter Trad
96
{SX} IXb Schwerelos Trad
97
{SX} VIIIc Seeadler Trad
98
{SX} VIIIb Seemansgarn Trad
99
{SX} IXc Seestern Trad
101
{SX} V Strubichweg Trad
102
103
{SX} VI Südostweg Trad
104
{SX} VIIc Südpfeiler (RP) Trad

red point

105
{SX} VIIa Südriß Trad
106
{SX} VI Südverschneidung Trad
107
{SX} VIIa Südverschneidung (oU) Trad

without support

108
{SX} IV Südweg Trad
109
{SX} VIIb Südwestkante Trad
110
{SX} IV Südwestweg Trad
111
{SX} Xb Torr Trad
112
{SX} IXc Totes Meer (RP) Trad

red point

113
114
{SX} IXc Treibnetz Trad
115
{SX} IV Tunnelweg Trad
116
{SX} XIb überdruckventil Trad
117
{SX} VIIb Urlaubsweg Trad
120
121
122
{SX} VIIIc Verbesserte Nordostwand Trad
123
{SX} IXa Verkümmerter Riß Trad
124
{SX} VIIc 2 Vorm Gewitter Trad
125
{SX} VIIIa Vorm Gewitter (oU) Trad

without support

126
{SX} IXb Weiße Weste Trad
127
{SX} VIIa Westwand Trad
128
{SX} I Winkelkamin Trad
129
{SX} VIIIb Winkelkante Trad
130
{SX} V Winkelriß Trad
131
{SX} IXb Yoga Trad
132
{SX} IXb Zentrale Nordwand Trad