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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
2
VIIb Abzweig Trad
4
II Alter Weg Trad
5
IXc Alzheimer Trad
6
VIIIa Anglerkante Trad
7
Xa Armada Trad
8
VIIa Augustinhangel Trad
12
VIIa AV zur Westwand Trad
14
VIIb Bergweg Trad
15
VIIc Bergweg (oU) Trad

without support

16
IXa Betäubung Trad
17

red point

18
VI Blockriß Trad
19

red point

20
Xc Die Kante Trad
22
25
26
VIIIb Direkter Osterweg Trad
27
28
IXc Distorsion Trad
29
II Dömlerweg Trad
30

red point

31
XIa Ebbe und Flut Trad
32
Xb Einbaum Trad
33
VIIb Eiserner Weg Trad
34

without support

35
VIIIb Examen Trad
36
VIIa Excelsiorweg Trad
37
VIIIb Fata Morgana Trad
38
VIIIa 2 Fischzug Trad
39
VIIb Fleißaufgabe Trad
40

without support

41
VIIIb Fliegenklatsche Trad
43
VIIIc Ganze Kante Trad
45
IXb Gretel Trad
46
III Grüner Weg Trad
48
VIIb Halbe Kante Trad
49
IXb High Live Trad
50
VIIIc Hoher Norden Trad
51
IV Hoher Riß Trad
52
53

red point

55
IXb Jojovariante Trad
56
IXc Kein Kommentar Trad
58
IXc Kleiner Fisch Trad
59
Xc Kompressor Trad
60
V Kreuzweg Trad
61
IXa Libelle Trad
62
VI Märzweg Trad
63

red point

65
66

red point

67
VIIb 2 Neuer Südwestweg Trad
68

red point

69
IXa Nischenkante Trad
70
V Nischenriß Trad
72
VIIIb Nordostwand Trad
73
VIIIc Nordostwand (oU) Trad

without support

74
VI Nordpfeiler Trad
75
VIIb Nordriß Trad
76
VIIIa Nordwand Trad
77
IV Nordweg Trad
78
VIIIa Nordwestecke Trad
79
VIIa Nordwestweg Trad
80
VIIIb Osternest Trad
81
VIIa Osterweg Trad
82
II Ostkamin Trad
83
V Ostweg Trad
84
IXc Ozonalarm (RP) Trad

red point

86
VIIIc Pfeilerwand Trad
87
VI Pfeilerweg Trad
88
VIIIa Pfingstweg Trad
89

red point

91
V Schluchtweg Trad
92
IXa Schmerzgrenze Trad
93
VIIa Schützelweg Trad
94
IXb Schwebfliege Trad
96
IXb Schwerelos Trad
97
VIIIc Seeadler Trad
98
VIIIb Seemansgarn Trad
99
IXc Seestern Trad
101
V Strubichweg Trad
103
VI Südostweg Trad
104

red point

105
VIIa Südriß Trad
107

without support

108
IV Südweg Trad
109
VIIb Südwestkante Trad
110
IV Südwestweg Trad
111
Xb Torr Trad
112

red point

114
IXc Treibnetz Trad
115
IV Tunnelweg Trad
116
117
VIIb Urlaubsweg Trad
124
VIIc 2 Vorm Gewitter Trad
125

without support

126
IXb Weiße Weste Trad
127
VIIa Westwand Trad
128
I Winkelkamin Trad
129
VIIIb Winkelkante Trad
130
V Winkelriß Trad
131
IXb Yoga Trad
132

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