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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
2
SX VIIb Abzweig Trad
3
SX VI Alpines Gelände Trad
4
SX II Alter Weg Trad
5
SX IXc Alzheimer Trad
6
SX VIIIa Anglerkante Trad
7
SX Xa Armada Trad
8
SX VIIa Augustinhangel Trad
11
SX VIIa AV zum Schützelweg Trad
12
SX VIIa AV zur Westwand Trad
14
SX VIIb Bergweg Trad
15
SX VIIc Bergweg (oU) Trad

without support

16
SX IXa Betäubung Trad
17

red point

18
SX VI Blockriß Trad
19

red point

20
SX Xc Die Kante Trad
21
22
SX IXa Direkte Westwand Trad
23
25
SX VIIb direkter Nordriß Trad
26
SX VIIIb Direkter Osterweg Trad
27
SX VIIIb Direkter Pfingstweg Trad
28
SX IXc Distorsion Trad
29
SX II Dömlerweg Trad
30

red point

31
SX XIa Ebbe und Flut Trad
32
SX Xb Einbaum Trad
33
SX VIIb Eiserner Weg Trad
34
SX VIIc Eiserner Weg (oU) Trad

without support

35
SX VIIIb Examen Trad
36
SX VIIa Excelsiorweg Trad
37
SX VIIIb Fata Morgana Trad
38
SX VIIIa/2 Fischzug Trad
39
SX VIIb Fleißaufgabe Trad
40
SX VIIc Fleißaufgabe (oU) Trad

without support

41
SX VIIIb Fliegenklatsche Trad
42
SX Xa Fluch und Segen Trad
43
SX VIIIc Ganze Kante Trad
44
SX VIIIb Gesucht und gefunden Trad
45
SX IXb Gretel Trad
46
SX III Grüner Weg Trad
47
SX IXb Grünes Ungeheuer Trad
48
SX VIIb Halbe Kante Trad
49
SX IXb High Live Trad
50
SX VIIIc Hoher Norden Trad
51
SX IV Hoher Riß Trad
52
SX V Hoher Winkel Trad
53
SX Xa Hot Fourty (RP) Trad

red point

54
55
SX IXb Jojovariante Trad
56
SX IXc Kein Kommentar Trad
57
SX IXa Kleine Inspiration Trad
58
SX IXc Kleiner Fisch Trad
59
SX Xc Kompressor Trad
60
SX V Kreuzweg Trad
61
SX IXa Libelle Trad
62
SX VI Märzweg Trad
63
SX Xa Metalmania (RP) Trad

red point

64
SX VI Neuer Nischenriß Trad
65
SX VIIc Neuer Nordpfeiler Trad
66
SX VIIIb Neuer Osterweg (RP) Trad

red point

67
SX VIIb/2 Neuer Südwestweg Trad
68

red point

69
SX IXa Nischenkante Trad
70
SX V Nischenriß Trad
72
SX VIIIb Nordostwand Trad
73
SX VIIIc Nordostwand (oU) Trad

without support

74
SX VI Nordpfeiler Trad
75
SX VIIb Nordriß Trad
76
SX VIIIa Nordwand Trad
77
SX IV Nordweg Trad
78
SX VIIIa Nordwestecke Trad
79
SX VIIa Nordwestweg Trad
80
SX VIIIb Osternest Trad
81
SX VIIa Osterweg Trad
82
SX II Ostkamin Trad
83
SX V Ostweg Trad
84
SX IXc Ozonalarm (RP) Trad

red point

85
SX VIIIc Perfekte Nordostwand Trad
86
SX VIIIc Pfeilerwand Trad
87
SX VI Pfeilerweg Trad
88
SX VIIIa Pfingstweg Trad
89
SX IXc Razzepimmel (RP) Trad

red point

90
SX Xb Rumpelstilzchen Trad
91
SX V Schluchtweg Trad
92
SX IXa Schmerzgrenze Trad
93
SX VIIa Schützelweg Trad
94
SX IXb Schwebfliege Trad
95
96
SX IXb Schwerelos Trad
97
SX VIIIc Seeadler Trad
98
SX VIIIb Seemansgarn Trad
99
SX IXc Seestern Trad
101
SX V Strubichweg Trad
103
SX VI Südostweg Trad
104
SX VIIc Südpfeiler (RP) Trad

red point

105
SX VIIa Südriß Trad
106
SX VI Südverschneidung Trad
107

without support

108
SX IV Südweg Trad
109
SX VIIb Südwestkante Trad
110
SX IV Südwestweg Trad
111
SX Xb Torr Trad
112
SX IXc Totes Meer (RP) Trad

red point

114
SX IXc Treibnetz Trad
115
SX IV Tunnelweg Trad
116
SX XIb überdruckventil Trad
117
SX VIIb Urlaubsweg Trad
122
123
SX IXa Verkümmerter Riß Trad
124
SX VIIc/2 Vorm Gewitter Trad
125
SX VIIIa Vorm Gewitter (oU) Trad

without support

126
SX IXb Weiße Weste Trad
127
SX VIIa Westwand Trad
128
SX I Winkelkamin Trad
129
SX VIIIb Winkelkante Trad
130
SX V Winkelriß Trad
131
SX IXb Yoga Trad
132
SX IXb Zentrale Nordwand Trad