A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Hinteres Pechofenhorn 40 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.276063, 50.908946

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg II Trad
2 Direkte Westwand (RP)

red point

IXb Trad
3 Dreierlei Tropfen IXb Trad
4 Duplikat VIIb Trad
5 EV zur Nordwand VIIb Trad
6 Fehrmannvariante III Trad
7 Freie Wand VIIIa Trad
8 Fruthsche Variante III Trad
9 Fünfmeterdach VIIIc Trad
10 Gipfelsturm VIIc Trad
11 Gipfelstürmerweg V Trad
12 Gipfelwand VIIa Trad
13 Goldregen (RP)

red point

IXb Trad
14 Herbstweg VIIa Trad
15 Lange Südwestwand VIIIc Trad
16 Neuer Gipfelstürmerweg VIIb Trad
17 Neuer Nordweg VIIc Trad
18 Nordecke IXc Trad
19 Nordostweg III Trad
20 Nordpfeiler VIIIa Trad
21 Nordriß VIIb Trad
22 Nordriß (oU)

without support

VIIc Trad
23 Nordwand VIIb Trad
24 Nordwandeinstieg VIIIa Trad
25 Nordweg VI Trad
26 Nordwestkante VIIc Trad
27 Pechmarie IXc Trad
28 Reibungsvariante zur NW-Kante VIIc Trad
29 Sandbank III Trad
30 Strubichweg V Trad
31 Südweg III Trad
32 Südwestkamin III Trad
33 Südwestkante VIIIa Trad
34 Südwestriß VIIc Trad
35 Talweg VIIIa Trad
36 Trennlinie VIIIb Trad
37 Ullrichvariante III Trad
38 Vollendung VIIIc Trad
39 Westwand VIIc Trad
40 Wider der Schwerkraft IXa Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
II Alter Weg Trad
III Fehrmannvariante Trad
Fruthsche Variante Trad
Nordostweg Trad
Sandbank Trad
Südweg Trad
Südwestkamin Trad
Ullrichvariante Trad
V Gipfelstürmerweg Trad
Strubichweg Trad
VI Nordweg Trad
VIIa Gipfelwand Trad
Herbstweg Trad
VIIb Duplikat Trad
EV zur Nordwand Trad
Neuer Gipfelstürmerweg Trad
Nordriß Trad
Nordwand Trad
VIIc Gipfelsturm Trad
Neuer Nordweg Trad
Nordriß (oU) Trad
Nordwestkante Trad
Reibungsvariante zur NW-Kante Trad
Südwestriß Trad
Westwand Trad
VIIIa Freie Wand Trad
Nordpfeiler Trad
Nordwandeinstieg Trad
Südwestkante Trad
Talweg Trad
VIIIb Trennlinie Trad
VIIIc Fünfmeterdach Trad
Lange Südwestwand Trad
Vollendung Trad
IXa Wider der Schwerkraft Trad
IXb Direkte Westwand (RP) Trad
Dreierlei Tropfen Trad
Goldregen (RP) Trad
IXc Nordecke Trad
Pechmarie Trad