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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} IXa Abkürzung Trad
2
{SX} IXa Abschneider (RP) Trad

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3
{SX} II Alter Weg Trad
4
{SX} VIIIb Balkon Trad
5
{SX} VIIIb Bärendach Trad
6
{SX} IXc Bärenfalle (RP) Trad

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7
{SX} IXb Bärenmix (RP) Trad

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8
{SX} IXa Bärenwand Trad
9
{SX} Xa Bärenzwinger Trad
10
{SX} VIIc Bauunternehmen Trad
12
{SX} IXa Direkter Balkon Trad
13
{SX} VIIc Direkter Südweg Trad
14
{SX} VIIIc Ein Wintertag Trad
15
{SX} Xa Entrophie (RP) Trad

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16
{SX} V EV zum Südweg Trad
17
{SX} VIIIc Gerade Variante Trad
18
{SX} Xb Goldbärchen (RP) Trad

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19
{SX} IXa Gummibärenbande (RP) Trad

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20
{SX} VIIIb Heiße Wand Trad
21
{SX} VIIIb Intermezzo Trad
22
{SX} VIIc Juliweg Trad
23
{SX} Xc Käpt'n Blaubär Trad
24
25
{SX} Xc Lippenbär (RP) Trad

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26
{SX} Xb Luftschloss Trad
27
{SX} VIIc Lukullus Trad
28
{SX} VIIc Neuer Talweg Trad
29
{SX} V Nordostwand Trad
30
{SX} III Nordwestweg Trad
31
{SX} VIIc nweg Trad
32
{SX} IXb Pollenflug (RP) Trad

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33
{SX} VIIIb Querfeldein Trad
34
{SX} IXa Querfeldein direkt Trad
35
{SX} VIIa Schartenwand Trad
36
{SX} IV Spaltenfolge Trad
37
{SX} VIIc Spiel der Mücken Trad
38
{SX} IV Südostweg Trad
39
{SX} VIIIa Südwand (RP) Trad

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40
{SX} IV Südweg Trad
41

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42
{SX} III Südwestweg Trad
43
{SX} VIIb Talweg Trad
44
{SX} VIIIb Tanz der Bären Trad
45
{SX} IXa überhängende Wand Trad
47
{SX} VIIb Variante zum Talweg Trad
49
{SX} VIIc Variantionen Trad
51
{SX} V Vergißmeinnicht Trad
53
{SX} VIIa Westkante Trad
54
{SX} Xa Wilde Jagd Trad