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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Abkürzung
IXa
Trad
2 Abschneider (RP)

red point

IXa
Trad
3 Alter Weg
II
Trad
4 Balkon
VIIIb
Trad
5 Bärendach
VIIIb
Trad
6 Bärenfalle (RP)

red point

IXc
Trad
7 Bärenmix (RP)

red point

IXb
Trad
8 Bärenwand
IXa
Trad
9 Bärenzwinger
Xa
Trad
10 Bauunternehmen
VIIc
Trad
11 Direkte südwestverschneidung
VIIIb
Trad
12 Direkter Balkon
IXa
Trad
13 Direkter Südweg
VIIc
Trad
14 Ein Wintertag
VIIIc
Trad
15 Entrophie (RP)

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Xa
Trad
16 EV zum Südweg
V
Trad
17 Gerade Variante
VIIIc
Trad
18 Goldbärchen (RP)

red point

Xb
Trad
19 Gummibärenbande (RP)

red point

IXa
Trad
20 Heiße Wand
VIIIb
Trad
21 Intermezzo
VIIIb
Trad
22 Juliweg
VIIc
Trad
23 Käpt'n Blaubär
Xc
Trad
24 Kurze Variante zum Talweg
VIIc
Trad
25 Lippenbär (RP)

red point

Xc
Trad
26 Luftschloss
Xb
Trad
27 Lukullus
VIIc
Trad
28 Neuer Talweg
VIIc
Trad
29 Nordostwand
V
Trad
30 Nordwestweg
III
Trad
31 nweg
VIIc
Trad
32 Pollenflug (RP)

red point

IXb
Trad
33 Querfeldein
VIIIb
Trad
34 Querfeldein direkt
IXa
Trad
35 Schartenwand
VIIa
Trad
36 Spaltenfolge
IV
Trad
37 Spiel der Mücken
VIIc
Trad
38 Südostweg
IV
Trad
39 Südwand (RP)

red point

VIIIa
Trad
40 Südweg
IV
Trad
41 Südwestverschneidung (RP)

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VIIIa
Trad
42 Südwestweg
III
Trad
43 Talweg
VIIb
Trad
44 Tanz der Bären
VIIIb
Trad
45 überhängende Wand
IXa
Trad
46 Variante zum Südwestweg
III
Trad
47 Variante zum Talweg
VIIb
Trad
48 Variante zur Südostwand
III
Trad
49 Variantionen
VIIc
Trad
50 Variationen zur Südwestverschneidung (RP)

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VIIIa
Trad
51 Vergißmeinnicht
V
Trad
52 Vollständig neue Version
IXa
Trad
53 Westkante
VIIa
Trad
54 Wilde Jagd
Xa
Trad