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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX IXa Abkürzung Trad
2
SX IXa Abschneider (RP) Trad

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3
SX II Alter Weg Trad
4
SX VIIIb Balkon Trad
5
SX VIIIb Bärendach Trad
6
SX IXc Bärenfalle (RP) Trad

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7
SX IXb Bärenmix (RP) Trad

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8
SX IXa Bärenwand Trad
9
SX Xa Bärenzwinger Trad
10
SX VIIc Bauunternehmen Trad
12
SX IXa Direkter Balkon Trad
13
SX VIIc Direkter Südweg Trad
14
SX VIIIc Ein Wintertag Trad
15
SX Xa Entrophie (RP) Trad

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16
SX V EV zum Südweg Trad
17
SX VIIIc Gerade Variante Trad
18
SX Xb Goldbärchen (RP) Trad

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19

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20
SX VIIIb Heiße Wand Trad
21
SX VIIIb Intermezzo Trad
22
SX VIIc Juliweg Trad
23
SX Xc Käpt'n Blaubär Trad
25
SX Xc Lippenbär (RP) Trad

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26
SX Xb Luftschloss Trad
27
SX VIIc Lukullus Trad
28
SX VIIc Neuer Talweg Trad
29
SX V Nordostwand Trad
30
SX III Nordwestweg Trad
31
SX VIIc nweg Trad
32
SX IXb Pollenflug (RP) Trad

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33
SX VIIIb Querfeldein Trad
34
SX IXa Querfeldein direkt Trad
35
SX VIIa Schartenwand Trad
36
SX IV Spaltenfolge Trad
37
SX VIIc Spiel der Mücken Trad
38
SX IV Südostweg Trad
39
SX VIIIa Südwand (RP) Trad

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40
SX IV Südweg Trad
41

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42
SX III Südwestweg Trad
43
SX VIIb Talweg Trad
44
SX VIIIb Tanz der Bären Trad
45
47
SX VIIb Variante zum Talweg Trad
49
SX VIIc Variantionen Trad
51
53
SX VIIa Westkante Trad
54
SX Xa Wilde Jagd Trad