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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Alter Weg
I
Trad
2 Direkte Westkante
V
Trad
3 Direkter Gewitterweg
VIIc
Trad
4 Frühlingsweg
IV
Trad
5 Gewitterweg
VIIb
Trad
6 Holzkohle
VIIc
Trad
7 Horst Köhler (RP)

red point

VIIIc
Trad
8 Juliweg
VIIb
Trad
9 Kohldampf
IXb
Trad
10 Kokser
VIIIa
Trad
11 Liesel
VIIa
Trad
12 Liesel (oU)

without support

VIIb
Trad
13 Meiler
VIIIb
Trad
14 Morgenkante
VIIIb
Trad
15 Moritzburger Weg
VIIa
Trad
16 Neue Nordwand
VIIIc
Trad
17 Neuer Weg
II
Trad
18 Nordwand
VIIb
Trad
19 Nordwand (oU)

without support

VIIIc
Trad
20 Nordweg
VIIa
Trad
21 Osterweg
VI
Trad
22 Ostweg
III
Trad
23 Pechfackel
V
Trad
24 Pechnase
VIIc
Trad
25 Pechschluchtpfeiler (RP)

red point

IXa
Trad
26 Samson-Kneifer
VIIb
Trad
27 Schwarze Wand
VIIIb
Trad
28 Südwand
VI
Trad
29 Südweg
V
Trad
30 Talvariante
VIIb
Trad
31 Talvariante zum Juliweg
VIIb
Trad
32 Tunnelweg
I
Trad
33 Variante zum Nordweg
VIIb
Trad
34 Westkante
IV
Trad
35 www.alles-banane.de (RP)

red point

IXa
Trad