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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX I Alter Weg Trad
3
SX VIIc Direkter Gewitterweg Trad
4
SX IV Frühlingsweg Trad
5
SX VIIb Gewitterweg Trad
6
SX VIIc Holzkohle Trad
7
SX VIIIc Horst Köhler (RP) Trad

red point

8
SX VIIb Juliweg Trad
9
SX IXb Kohldampf Trad
10
SX VIIIa Kokser Trad
11
SX VIIa Liesel Trad
12
SX VIIb Liesel (oU) Trad

without support

13
SX VIIIb Meiler Trad
14
SX VIIIb Morgenkante Trad
15
SX VIIa Moritzburger Weg Trad
16
SX VIIIc Neue Nordwand Trad
17
SX II Neuer Weg Trad
18
SX VIIb Nordwand Trad
19
SX VIIIc Nordwand (oU) Trad

without support

20
SX VIIa Nordweg Trad
21
SX VI Osterweg Trad
22
SX III Ostweg Trad
23
SX V Pechfackel Trad
24
SX VIIc Pechnase Trad
25

red point

26
SX VIIb Samson-Kneifer Trad
27
SX VIIIb Schwarze Wand Trad
28
SX VI Südwand Trad
29
SX V Südweg Trad
30
SX VIIb Talvariante Trad
32
SX I Tunnelweg Trad
33
SX VIIb Variante zum Nordweg Trad
34
SX IV Westkante Trad
35

red point