A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Köhler 35 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.276219, 50.908484

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg {SX} I Trad
2 Direkte Westkante {SX} V Trad
3 Direkter Gewitterweg {SX} VIIc Trad
4 Frühlingsweg {SX} IV Trad
5 Gewitterweg {SX} VIIb Trad
6 Holzkohle {SX} VIIc Trad
7 Horst Köhler (RP)

red point

{SX} VIIIc Trad
8 Juliweg {SX} VIIb Trad
9 Kohldampf {SX} IXb Trad
10 Kokser {SX} VIIIa Trad
11 Liesel {SX} VIIa Trad
12 Liesel (oU)

without support

{SX} VIIb Trad
13 Meiler {SX} VIIIb Trad
14 Morgenkante {SX} VIIIb Trad
15 Moritzburger Weg {SX} VIIa Trad
16 Neue Nordwand {SX} VIIIc Trad
17 Neuer Weg {SX} II Trad
18 Nordwand {SX} VIIb Trad
19 Nordwand (oU)

without support

{SX} VIIIc Trad
20 Nordweg {SX} VIIa Trad
21 Osterweg {SX} VI Trad
22 Ostweg {SX} III Trad
23 Pechfackel {SX} V Trad
24 Pechnase {SX} VIIc Trad
25 Pechschluchtpfeiler (RP)

red point

{SX} IXa Trad
26 Samson-Kneifer {SX} VIIb Trad
27 Schwarze Wand {SX} VIIIb Trad
28 Südwand {SX} VI Trad
29 Südweg {SX} V Trad
30 Talvariante {SX} VIIb Trad
31 Talvariante zum Juliweg {SX} VIIb Trad
32 Tunnelweg {SX} I Trad
33 Variante zum Nordweg {SX} VIIb Trad
34 Westkante {SX} IV Trad
35 www.alles-banane.de (RP)

red point

{SX} IXa Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
I Alter Weg Trad
Tunnelweg Trad
II Neuer Weg Trad
III Ostweg Trad
IV Frühlingsweg Trad
Westkante Trad
V Direkte Westkante Trad
Pechfackel Trad
Südweg Trad
VI Osterweg Trad
Südwand Trad
VIIa Liesel Trad
Moritzburger Weg Trad
Nordweg Trad
VIIb Gewitterweg Trad
Juliweg Trad
Liesel (oU) Trad
Nordwand Trad
Samson-Kneifer Trad
Talvariante Trad
Talvariante zum Juliweg Trad
Variante zum Nordweg Trad
VIIc Direkter Gewitterweg Trad
Holzkohle Trad
Pechnase Trad
VIIIa Kokser Trad
VIIIb Meiler Trad
Morgenkante Trad
Schwarze Wand Trad
VIIIc Horst Köhler (RP) Trad
Neue Nordwand Trad
Nordwand (oU) Trad
IXa Pechschluchtpfeiler (RP) Trad
www.alles-banane.de (RP) Trad
IXb Kohldampf Trad