Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} III Abendweg Trad
2
{SX} I Alter Weg Trad
3
{SX} VIIIb Bärfangkante Trad
4

red point

5
{SX} I Bequemer Weg Trad
6
{SX} VIIb Direkte Nordwand Trad
7
{SX} VIIIb EV zum Schluchtweg Trad
8
{SX} Xa Falscher Prinz (RP) Trad

red point

9
{SX} IXc Farbwechsel (RP) Trad

red point

10
{SX} VIIc Für Immer Trad
11
{SX} VIIc Geiler Pfeiler Trad
12
{SX} VIIIb Glückstreffer (RP) Trad

red point

13
{SX} VIIIa Hardware Trad
14
{SX} VIIc Heiße Wand Trad
15
{SX} III Herbstweg Trad
16
{SX} VI Hoher Riß Trad
17
{SX} IXb Im Süden was neues Trad
18
{SX} IXa Im Überhüngenden Trad
20
{SX} VI Katerbummel Trad
21
{SX} VIIIb Klassischer Einstieg Trad
22
{SX} VIIc Köhlerstiege Trad
23
{SX} VIIIa Kühle Blonde (RP) Trad

red point

24
{SX} VIIa Kurze Wand Trad
25
{SX} IXc Lichtblick Trad
26
{SX} V Meteorolügenriß Trad
27
{SX} III Mittelweg Trad
28
{SX} VIIb Neuer Nordweg Trad
29
{SX} IV Neuer Südweg Trad
30
{SX} IV Neuer Weg Trad
31
{SX} II Nordkamin Trad
32
{SX} III Nordostweg Trad
33
{SX} III Nordostwinkel Trad
34
{SX} VI Nordriß Trad
35
{SX} VIIa Nordwand Trad
36
{SX} III Nordweg Trad
37
{SX} VIIb Nordwestkante Trad
38
{SX} VIIb nweg Trad
39
{SX} III Ostkamin Trad
40
{SX} VIIIc Plattenwand (RP) Trad

red point

41
{SX} V Querweg Trad
42
{SX} VIIb Quiz Trad
43
{SX} IXb Riesenflug Trad
44
{SX} IXb Roter Überhang (RP) Trad

red point

45
{SX} VIIa RP-Weg Trad
46
{SX} III Schluchtweg Trad
47
{SX} IXa Schwibbogen (RP) Trad

red point

48
{SX} VIIIc Spiel der Nerven Trad
49
{SX} Xa Strammer Max (RP) Trad

red point

50
{SX} I südkamin Trad
51
{SX} VI Südostweg Trad
52
{SX} VI Südrinne Trad
53
{SX} VIIa Südwand Trad
54
{SX} VIIc Südwand (oU) Trad

without support

55
{SX} IV Südweg Trad
56
{SX} VIIIa Südwestpfeiler Trad
57
{SX} V Südwestschlucht Trad
58
{SX} VIIa Südwestwand Trad
59
{SX} VIIb Südwestwand (oU) Trad

without support

60
{SX} V Sybillenweg Trad
61
{SX} VIIb Talweg Trad
62
{SX} VIIb Terrassenweg Trad
64
{SX} VIIb Variante zum Quiz Trad
65
{SX} VIIIc Weg des Lichts Trad
66
{SX} VIIIc Wenn und Aber Trad
67
{SX} VIIb Westriß Trad
68
{SX} VIIa Westverschneidung Trad
69
{SX} VIIIb Westwand Trad
70
{SX} III Winkelweg Trad
71
{SX} VIIIc Zentrale Nordwand Trad