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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
III Abendweg Trad
2
I Alter Weg Trad
3
VIIIb Bärfangkante Trad
4

red point

6
8

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9

red point

10
VIIc Für Immer Trad
11
VIIc Geiler Pfeiler Trad
12

red point

13
VIIIa Hardware Trad
14
VIIc Heiße Wand Trad
15
III Herbstweg Trad
16
VI Hoher Riß Trad
20
VI Katerbummel Trad
22
VIIc Köhlerstiege Trad
23

red point

24
VIIa Kurze Wand Trad
25
IXc Lichtblick Trad
27
III Mittelweg Trad
28
VIIb Neuer Nordweg Trad
29
30
IV Neuer Weg Trad
31
II Nordkamin Trad
32
III Nordostweg Trad
33
III Nordostwinkel Trad
34
VI Nordriß Trad
35
VIIa Nordwand Trad
36
III Nordweg Trad
37
VIIb Nordwestkante Trad
38
VIIb nweg Trad
39
III Ostkamin Trad
40
VIIIc Plattenwand (RP) Trad

red point

41
V Querweg Trad
42
VIIb Quiz Trad
43
IXb Riesenflug Trad
44

red point

45
VIIa RP-Weg Trad
46
III Schluchtweg Trad
47

red point

48
VIIIc Spiel der Nerven Trad
49

red point

50
I südkamin Trad
51
VI Südostweg Trad
52
VI Südrinne Trad
53
VIIa Südwand Trad
54
VIIc Südwand (oU) Trad

without support

55
IV Südweg Trad
56
VIIIa Südwestpfeiler Trad
58
VIIa Südwestwand Trad
59

without support

60
V Sybillenweg Trad
61
VIIb Talweg Trad
62
VIIb Terrassenweg Trad
64
65
VIIIc Weg des Lichts Trad
66
VIIIc Wenn und Aber Trad
67
VIIb Westriß Trad
68
69
VIIIb Westwand Trad
70
III Winkelweg Trad
71
VIIIc Zentrale Nordwand Trad

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