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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX III Abendweg Trad
2
SX I Alter Weg Trad
3
SX VIIIb Bärfangkante Trad
4

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5
SX I Bequemer Weg Trad
6
SX VIIb Direkte Nordwand Trad
7
SX VIIIb EV zum Schluchtweg Trad
8

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9
SX IXc Farbwechsel (RP) Trad

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10
SX VIIc Für Immer Trad
11
SX VIIc Geiler Pfeiler Trad
12
SX VIIIb Glückstreffer (RP) Trad

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13
SX VIIIa Hardware Trad
14
SX VIIc Heiße Wand Trad
15
SX III Herbstweg Trad
16
SX VI Hoher Riß Trad
17
18
SX IXa Im Überhüngenden Trad
20
SX VI Katerbummel Trad
21
SX VIIIb Klassischer Einstieg Trad
22
SX VIIc Köhlerstiege Trad
23
SX VIIIa Kühle Blonde (RP) Trad

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24
SX VIIa Kurze Wand Trad
25
SX IXc Lichtblick Trad
26
27
SX III Mittelweg Trad
28
SX VIIb Neuer Nordweg Trad
29
SX IV Neuer Südweg Trad
30
SX IV Neuer Weg Trad
31
SX II Nordkamin Trad
32
SX III Nordostweg Trad
33
SX III Nordostwinkel Trad
34
SX VI Nordriß Trad
35
SX VIIa Nordwand Trad
36
SX III Nordweg Trad
37
SX VIIb Nordwestkante Trad
38
SX VIIb nweg Trad
39
SX III Ostkamin Trad
40
SX VIIIc Plattenwand (RP) Trad

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41
SX V Querweg Trad
42
SX VIIb Quiz Trad
43
SX IXb Riesenflug Trad
44

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45
SX VIIa RP-Weg Trad
46
SX III Schluchtweg Trad
47
SX IXa Schwibbogen (RP) Trad

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48
SX VIIIc Spiel der Nerven Trad
49
SX Xa Strammer Max (RP) Trad

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50
SX I südkamin Trad
51
SX VI Südostweg Trad
52
SX VI Südrinne Trad
53
SX VIIa Südwand Trad
54
SX VIIc Südwand (oU) Trad

without support

55
SX IV Südweg Trad
56
SX VIIIa Südwestpfeiler Trad
57
58
SX VIIa Südwestwand Trad
59
SX VIIb Südwestwand (oU) Trad

without support

60
SX V Sybillenweg Trad
61
SX VIIb Talweg Trad
62
SX VIIb Terrassenweg Trad
64
SX VIIb Variante zum Quiz Trad
65
SX VIIIc Weg des Lichts Trad
66
SX VIIIc Wenn und Aber Trad
67
SX VIIb Westriß Trad
68
SX VIIa Westverschneidung Trad
69
SX VIIIb Westwand Trad
70
SX III Winkelweg Trad
71
SX VIIIc Zentrale Nordwand Trad