A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Vorderes Pechofenhorn 25 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.274445, 50.908323

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg II Trad
2 Aschenbuddel Xa Trad
3 Dachschaden VIIIa Trad
4 EV zum Gipfelstürmerweg VI Trad
5 Falscher Prinz (RP)

red point

Xa Trad
6 Geschützte Wand (RP)

red point

VIIIc Trad
7 Gipfelstürmerweg VI Trad
8 Kleiner Prinz IXc Trad
9 Neuer Schartenweg VI Trad
10 Neuer Westweg III Trad
11 Nordriß VIIIa Trad
12 Nordriß (oU)

without support

VIIIb Trad
13 Nordweg VIIIa Trad
14 Nordwestwand VIIIc Trad
15 Pfeilerweg III Trad
16 Schartenweg II Trad
17 Südkamin II Trad
18 Talweg VIIIa Trad
19 Überholen ohne einzuholen IXb Trad
20 Variante zum Gipfelstürmerweg VI Trad
21 Variante zum Neuen Westweg III Trad
22 Variante zum Schartenweg III Trad
23 Westkante VIIIa Trad
24 Westwand V Trad
25 Westweg III Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
II Alter Weg Trad
Schartenweg Trad
Südkamin Trad
III Neuer Westweg Trad
Pfeilerweg Trad
Variante zum Neuen Westweg Trad
Variante zum Schartenweg Trad
Westweg Trad
V Westwand Trad
VI EV zum Gipfelstürmerweg Trad
Gipfelstürmerweg Trad
Neuer Schartenweg Trad
Variante zum Gipfelstürmerweg Trad
VIIIa Dachschaden Trad
Nordriß Trad
Nordweg Trad
Talweg Trad
Westkante Trad
VIIIb Nordriß (oU) Trad
VIIIc Geschützte Wand (RP) Trad
Nordwestwand Trad
IXb Überholen ohne einzuholen Trad
IXc Kleiner Prinz Trad
Xa Aschenbuddel Trad
Falscher Prinz (RP) Trad