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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
IXb 3. Pol Trad
2
VIIc 3x8 (RP) Trad

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3
VIIIb 4 x 8 Trad
4
VIIIb Adel verpflichtet Trad
5
VIIc Alte Kameraden Trad
6
II Alter Weg Trad
7
8
VIIIb Breite Wand Trad
9
VIIIb Burgfrieden Trad
10
IXb Dritter Pol Trad
11
VIIIb Eiserne Maske Trad
12
VIIc Eselsritt Trad
15

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17
IXa Härtetest Trad
18
VIIc Hellebarde Trad
19
VIIb Herbstwand Trad
20
VIIa Knappenweg Trad
21
II Leichter Weg Trad
22
VIIc Neuer Weg Trad
23
VIIa Nodostecke Trad
24
VIIa Nordhangel Trad
25
IV Nordkamin Trad
26
VIIa Nordostecke Trad
27
VIIIb Nordostkante (RP) Trad

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28
VI Nordostriß Trad
29
VIIa Nordostweg Trad
30
IV Nordpfeiler Trad
31
IV Nordriß Trad
32
VI Nordwand Trad
33
VIIa Nordwestkante Trad
34
III Nordwestweg Trad
36
VIIa Ostwand Trad
37
VIIb Raubritter Trad
38
VIIb Ritterspiele Trad
39
VIIIa Romanze Trad
40
VIIc Romanze rechts Trad
42
VI Schwerer Weg Trad
43

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44

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45
VIIIc Stormbringer Trad
46
III Südkamin Trad
47
V Südostweg Trad
48
IV Südrippe Trad
49
VIIb Südriß Trad
50
III Südweg Trad
51

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54
V Winkelriss Trad

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