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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX IXb 3. Pol Trad
2
SX VIIc 3x8 (RP) Trad

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3
SX VIIIb 4 x 8 Trad
4
SX VIIIb Adel verpflichtet Trad
5
SX VIIc Alte Kameraden Trad
6
SX II Alter Weg Trad
7
SX VIIb Alter Weg direkt Trad
8
SX VIIIb Breite Wand Trad
9
SX VIIIb Burgfrieden Trad
10
SX IXb Dritter Pol Trad
11
SX VIIIb Eiserne Maske Trad
12
SX VIIc Eselsritt Trad
13
15

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16
17
SX IXa Härtetest Trad
18
SX VIIc Hellebarde Trad
19
SX VIIb Herbstwand Trad
20
SX VIIa Knappenweg Trad
21
SX II Leichter Weg Trad
22
SX VIIc Neuer Weg Trad
23
SX VIIa Nodostecke Trad
24
SX VIIa Nordhangel Trad
25
SX IV Nordkamin Trad
26
SX VIIa Nordostecke Trad
27
SX VIIIb Nordostkante (RP) Trad

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28
SX VI Nordostriß Trad
29
SX VIIa Nordostweg Trad
30
SX IV Nordpfeiler Trad
31
SX IV Nordriß Trad
32
SX VI Nordwand Trad
33
SX VIIa Nordwestkante Trad
34
SX III Nordwestweg Trad
35
36
SX VIIa Ostwand Trad
37
SX VIIb Raubritter Trad
38
SX VIIb Ritterspiele Trad
39
SX VIIIa Romanze Trad
40
SX VIIc Romanze rechts Trad
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42
SX VI Schwerer Weg Trad
43
SX VIIb Sommeranfang (RP) Trad

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44
SX VIIIa Sonntagsfahrt (RP) Trad

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45
SX VIIIc Stormbringer Trad
46
SX III Südkamin Trad
47
SX V Südostweg Trad
48
SX IV Südrippe Trad
49
SX VIIb Südriß Trad
50
SX III Südweg Trad
51
SX VIIb Tintenklecks (RP) Trad

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54
SX V Winkelriss Trad