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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} IXb 3. Pol Trad
2
{SX} VIIc 3x8 (RP) Trad

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3
{SX} VIIIb 4 x 8 Trad
4
{SX} VIIIb Adel verpflichtet Trad
5
{SX} VIIc Alte Kameraden Trad
6
{SX} II Alter Weg Trad
7
{SX} VIIb Alter Weg direkt Trad
8
{SX} VIIIb Breite Wand Trad
9
{SX} VIIIb Burgfrieden Trad
10
{SX} IXb Dritter Pol Trad
11
{SX} VIIIb Eiserne Maske Trad
12
{SX} VIIc Eselsritt Trad
13
{SX} V Für Frührentner Trad
14
{SX} V Für unsere Kinder Trad
15
{SX} VIIIa Gestohlene Schlacht (RP) Trad

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16
{SX} IXa Grüner Eisenbeißer Trad
17
{SX} IXa Härtetest Trad
18
{SX} VIIc Hellebarde Trad
19
{SX} VIIb Herbstwand Trad
20
{SX} VIIa Knappenweg Trad
21
{SX} II Leichter Weg Trad
22
{SX} VIIc Neuer Weg Trad
23
{SX} VIIa Nodostecke Trad
24
{SX} VIIa Nordhangel Trad
25
{SX} IV Nordkamin Trad
26
{SX} VIIa Nordostecke Trad
27
{SX} VIIIb Nordostkante (RP) Trad

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28
{SX} VI Nordostriß Trad
29
{SX} VIIa Nordostweg Trad
30
{SX} IV Nordpfeiler Trad
31
{SX} IV Nordriß Trad
32
{SX} VI Nordwand Trad
33
{SX} VIIa Nordwestkante Trad
34
{SX} III Nordwestweg Trad
35
{SX} IV Nordwestweg rechts Trad
36
{SX} VIIa Ostwand Trad
37
{SX} VIIb Raubritter Trad
38
{SX} VIIb Ritterspiele Trad
39
{SX} VIIIa Romanze Trad
40
{SX} VIIc Romanze rechts Trad
41
{SX} Xa Schwarzer Streifen Trad
42
{SX} VI Schwerer Weg Trad
43
{SX} VIIb Sommeranfang (RP) Trad

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44
{SX} VIIIa Sonntagsfahrt (RP) Trad

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45
{SX} VIIIc Stormbringer Trad
46
{SX} III Südkamin Trad
47
{SX} V Südostweg Trad
48
{SX} IV Südrippe Trad
49
{SX} VIIb Südriß Trad
50
{SX} III Südweg Trad
51
{SX} VIIb Tintenklecks (RP) Trad

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52
{SX} IV Variante zum Südweg Trad
53
54
{SX} V Winkelriss Trad