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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 3. Pol
IXb
Trad
2 3x8 (RP)

red point

VIIc
Trad
3 4 x 8
VIIIb
Trad
4 Adel verpflichtet
VIIIb
Trad
5 Alte Kameraden
VIIc
Trad
6 Alter Weg
II
Trad
7 Alter Weg direkt
VIIb
Trad
8 Breite Wand
VIIIb
Trad
9 Burgfrieden
VIIIb
Trad
10 Dritter Pol
IXb
Trad
11 Eiserne Maske
VIIIb
Trad
12 Eselsritt
VIIc
Trad
13 Für Frührentner
V
Trad
14 Für unsere Kinder
V
Trad
15 Gestohlene Schlacht (RP)

red point

VIIIa
Trad
16 Grüner Eisenbeißer
IXa
Trad
17 Härtetest
IXa
Trad
18 Hellebarde
VIIc
Trad
19 Herbstwand
VIIb
Trad
20 Knappenweg
VIIa
Trad
21 Leichter Weg
II
Trad
22 Neuer Weg
VIIc
Trad
23 Nodostecke
VIIa
Trad
24 Nordhangel
VIIa
Trad
25 Nordkamin
IV
Trad
26 Nordostecke
VIIa
Trad
27 Nordostkante (RP)

red point

VIIIb
Trad
28 Nordostriß
VI
Trad
29 Nordostweg
VIIa
Trad
30 Nordpfeiler
IV
Trad
31 Nordriß
IV
Trad
32 Nordwand
VI
Trad
33 Nordwestkante
VIIa
Trad
34 Nordwestweg
III
Trad
35 Nordwestweg rechts
IV
Trad
36 Ostwand
VIIa
Trad
37 Raubritter
VIIb
Trad
38 Ritterspiele
VIIb
Trad
39 Romanze
VIIIa
Trad
40 Romanze rechts
VIIc
Trad
41 Schwarzer Streifen
Xa
Trad
42 Schwerer Weg
VI
Trad
43 Sommeranfang (RP)

red point

VIIb
Trad
44 Sonntagsfahrt (RP)

red point

VIIIa
Trad
45 Stormbringer
VIIIc
Trad
46 Südkamin
III
Trad
47 Südostweg
V
Trad
48 Südrippe
IV
Trad
49 Südriß
VIIb
Trad
50 Südweg
III
Trad
51 Tintenklecks (RP)

red point

VIIb
Trad
52 Variante zum Südweg
IV
Trad
53 Variante zur Nordwand
VI
Trad
54 Winkelriss
V
Trad