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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Alte Kameraden
VIIc
Trad
2 Alter Weg
II
Trad
3 Aussetzer
VIIb
Trad
4 Bergweg
II
Trad
5 Birkenriß
V
Trad
6 Burgfräulein Adelheid
IXa
Trad
7 Direkte Touristenattraktion
VIIIc
Trad
8 Direkter Kalter Sommer
VIIIc
Trad
9 Elegante Variante zum Juniweg
VIIb
Trad
10 Ferienspiele
VIIb
Trad
11 Fingerfertigkeit
IXb
Trad
12 Fingerfertigkeit direkt
IXb
Trad
13 Geburtstagsfeier (RP)

red point

VIIIc
Trad
14 Graf Kuckucksberg
VIIIb
Trad
15 Graf Kuckucksberg direkt
VIIIb
Trad
16 Graf Kuckucksberger
VIIIb
Trad
17 Juniweg
VIIb
Trad
18 Kalter Sommer
VIIIc
Trad
19 Kopfgeld
VIIIc
Trad
20 Kotzweg
VIIc
Trad
21 Maiweg
VIIb
Trad
22 Olympische Spiele
IXc
Trad
23 Ostfront
VIIIc
Trad
24 Ostkamin
II
Trad
25 Ostverschneidung
III
Trad
26 Räuber Fürchtenix
VIIIc
Trad
27 Raubritter
VIIIc
Trad
28 Raubzug
VIIIb
Trad
29 Regulator
VIIIa
Trad
30 Regulator direkt
VIIIb
Trad
31 Ritter Runkel (RP)

red point

IXb
Trad
32 Rübensteiner Kante (RP)

red point

IXb
Trad
33 Stein des Anstoßes
IXb
Trad
34 Südriß
VIIa
Trad
35 Südwinkel
VI
Trad
36 Touristenattraktion (RP)

red point

IXa
Trad
37 Türkenschreck
VIIIc
Trad
38 Über den Alten
I/3
Trad
39 Übergang
II
Trad
40 Unfreiwilliger Speläologe
IV
Trad
41 Unter Geiern (RP)

red point

IXb
Trad
42 Variante zum Maiweg
VIIb
Trad
43 Variante zum Südwinkel
V
Trad
44 Weihnachtsoratorium
VIIIa
Trad
45 Zum Leben erweckt (RP)

red point

Xa
Trad
46 Zum Sterben geboren
Xc
Trad