Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} VIIc Alte Kameraden Trad
2
{SX} II Alter Weg Trad
3
{SX} VIIb Aussetzer Trad
4
{SX} II Bergweg Trad
5
{SX} V Birkenriß Trad
6
8
{SX} VIIIc Direkter Kalter Sommer Trad
10
{SX} VIIb Ferienspiele Trad
11
{SX} IXb Fingerfertigkeit Trad
12
13
{SX} VIIIc Geburtstagsfeier (RP) Trad

red point

14
{SX} VIIIb Graf Kuckucksberg Trad
15
{SX} VIIIb Graf Kuckucksberg direkt Trad
16
{SX} VIIIb Graf Kuckucksberger Trad
17
{SX} VIIb Juniweg Trad
18
{SX} VIIIc Kalter Sommer Trad
19
{SX} VIIIc Kopfgeld Trad
20
{SX} VIIc Kotzweg Trad
21
{SX} VIIb Maiweg Trad
22
{SX} IXc Olympische Spiele Trad
23
{SX} VIIIc Ostfront Trad
24
{SX} II Ostkamin Trad
25
{SX} III Ostverschneidung Trad
26
{SX} VIIIc Räuber Fürchtenix Trad
27
{SX} VIIIc Raubritter Trad
28
{SX} VIIIb Raubzug Trad
29
{SX} VIIIa Regulator Trad
30
{SX} VIIIb Regulator direkt Trad
31
{SX} IXb Ritter Runkel (RP) Trad

red point

32

red point

33
{SX} IXb Stein des Anstoßes Trad
34
{SX} VIIa Südriß Trad
35
{SX} VI Südwinkel Trad
36

red point

37
{SX} VIIIc Türkenschreck Trad
38
{SX} I 3 Über den Alten Trad
39
{SX} II Übergang Trad
41
{SX} IXb Unter Geiern (RP) Trad

red point

42
{SX} VIIb Variante zum Maiweg Trad
44
{SX} VIIIa Weihnachtsoratorium Trad
45

red point

46
{SX} Xc Zum Sterben geboren Trad