Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX VIIc Alte Kameraden Trad
2
SX II Alter Weg Trad
3
SX VIIb Aussetzer Trad
4
SX II Bergweg Trad
5
SX V Birkenriß Trad
8
10
SX VIIb Ferienspiele Trad
11
SX IXb Fingerfertigkeit Trad
13
SX VIIIc Geburtstagsfeier (RP) Trad

red point

14
SX VIIIb Graf Kuckucksberg Trad
16
SX VIIIb Graf Kuckucksberger Trad
17
SX VIIb Juniweg Trad
18
SX VIIIc Kalter Sommer Trad
19
SX VIIIc Kopfgeld Trad
20
SX VIIc Kotzweg Trad
21
SX VIIb Maiweg Trad
22
SX IXc Olympische Spiele Trad
23
SX VIIIc Ostfront Trad
24
SX II Ostkamin Trad
25
SX III Ostverschneidung Trad
26
SX VIIIc Räuber Fürchtenix Trad
27
SX VIIIc Raubritter Trad
28
SX VIIIb Raubzug Trad
29
SX VIIIa Regulator Trad
30
SX VIIIb Regulator direkt Trad
31
SX IXb Ritter Runkel (RP) Trad

red point

32

red point

33
34
SX VIIa Südriß Trad
35
SX VI Südwinkel Trad
36

red point

37
SX VIIIc Türkenschreck Trad
38
SX I/3 Über den Alten Trad
39
SX II Übergang Trad
41
SX IXb Unter Geiern (RP) Trad

red point

42
SX VIIb Variante zum Maiweg Trad
44
SX VIIIa Weihnachtsoratorium Trad
45

red point

46