Area Guide for Heringstein
A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.
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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
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Table of contents
- 1. Heringstein
388 in Area
- 1.1. Bärfangkanzel 7 in Cliff
- 1.2. Meilensäule 5 in Cliff
- 1.3. Kathinkaturm 8 in Cliff
- 1.4. Elfiturm 52 in Cliff
- 1.5. Pilzturm 6 in Cliff
- 1.6. Kleines Bärenhorn 54 in Cliff
- 1.7. Großes Bärenhorn 31 in Cliff
- 1.8. Heringshorn 12 in Cliff
- 1.9. Sprotte 7 in Cliff
- 1.10. Heringsturm 6 in Cliff
- 1.11. Bewachsener Turm 6 in Cliff
- 1.12. Heringstein 132 in Cliff
- 1.13. Prinz Karneval 7 in Cliff
- 1.14. Heringsteinkegel 20 in Cliff
- 1.15. Vorderer Versteckter Turm 18 in Cliff
- 1.16. Hinterer Versteckter Turm 10 in Cliff
- 1.17. Försterlochturm 7 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Heringstein 388 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad
Long/Lat: 14.264374, 50.904654
- Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz
-
Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .
- Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz
-
You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:
- Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
- No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
- No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
- no chalk, no pof
- Sign the summit register.
- Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
- Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
- Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
1.1. Bärfangkanzel 7 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.272710, 50.905076
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | II | ||||
| 2 | Nordostweg | III | ||||
| 3 | Ostweg | II | ||||
| 4 | Taleinstieg | III | ||||
| 5 | Talverschneidung | V | ||||
| 6 | Talweg | VIIb | ||||
| 7 | Umleitung | VIIc | ||||
1.2. Meilensäule 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.271250, 50.904980
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | VIIa | ||||
| 2 | Aufstieg | VIIb | ||||
| 3 | Elektro | VIIIb | ||||
| 4 | Siebenmeilenschritt | VIIIa | ||||
| 5 | Teufelsspur | IXa | ||||
1.3. Kathinkaturm 8 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.270421, 50.906091
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | III | ||||
| 2 | Neue Südwand | VIIb | ||||
| 3 | Ostkante | V | ||||
| 4 |
Ostkante (oU)
without support | VI | ||||
| 5 | Südwand | VI | ||||
| 6 | überm Schustergrund | IXb | ||||
| 7 | Variante zum AW | III | ||||
| 8 | Westkante | V | ||||
1.4. Elfiturm 52 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.269910, 50.906402
1.5. Pilzturm 6 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.268810, 50.905163
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | III | ||||
| 2 | Nordriß | V | ||||
| 3 | Ostweg | IV | ||||
| 4 | Schartenweg | VI | ||||
| 5 | Taxiweg | VIIc | ||||
| 6 | Variante zum Nordriß | V | ||||
1.6. Kleines Bärenhorn 54 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.266683, 50.905525
1.7. Großes Bärenhorn 31 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.267005, 50.905923
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | II | ||||
| 2 | Auf der Alm | VIIc | ||||
| 3 |
Auf der Alm (oU)
without support | IXa | ||||
| 4 | Bärenhäuter | IXa | ||||
| 5 | Bergweg | I | ||||
| 6 | Blockweg | VIIc | ||||
| 7 | Bügelbrett | IXa | ||||
| 8 | Bügeleisen | VIIIc | ||||
| 9 | Bügeleisenkante | VIIIb | ||||
| 10 | Direkter Südweg | VIIc | ||||
| 11 | Gewitterweg | VI | ||||
| 12 | Grenzpunkt Null | IXc | ||||
| 13 | Klare Linie | VIIc | ||||
| 14 | Neue Linie | VIIIb | ||||
| 15 | Neuer Talweg | VIIb | ||||
| 16 | Nordpfeiler | VIIc | ||||
| 17 | Reibungsattacke | VIIc | ||||
| 18 | Riesenverschneidung | VIIb | ||||
| 19 | Riß im Winkel | VIIc | ||||
| 20 | Rißvergnügen | VIIa | ||||
| 21 | Robinson | IXc | ||||
| 22 | Schartenkamin | III | ||||
| 23 | Schartenwand | VIIc | ||||
| 24 | Spurensuche | VIIb | ||||
| 25 | Sternchenweg | VI | ||||
| 26 | Südweg | VI | ||||
| 27 | Talweg | VIIc | ||||
| 28 | Variante zum Nordweg | VIIa | ||||
| 29 | Variante zumAlten Weg | IV | ||||
| 30 | Weg des Verfalls | VIIc | ||||
| 31 | Westweg | IV | ||||
1.8. Heringshorn 12 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.265226, 50.904086
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | II | ||||
| 2 | Birkenwändchen | VIIa | ||||
| 3 | Herbstweg | VIIb | ||||
| 4 | Kurze Kante | IV | ||||
| 5 | Moospromenade | III | ||||
| 6 | Nordwand | VIIb | ||||
| 7 | Ostweg | II | ||||
| 8 | Schartenweg | V | ||||
| 9 | Südrinne | VIIIa | ||||
| 10 | Südwestweg | VIIc | ||||
| 11 | Westkante | VIIa | ||||
| 12 | Westschlucht | II | ||||
1.9. Sprotte 7 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.262650, 50.905530
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | IV | ||||
| 2 | Nordkante | V | ||||
| 3 | Ohne Worte | VIIa | ||||
| 4 | Schnelle Reibung | V | ||||
| 5 | Serpentine | V | ||||
| 6 | Talseite | VIIa | ||||
| 7 | Variante zum Alten Weg | III | ||||
1.10. Heringsturm 6 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.262491, 50.902886
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | VIIc | ||||
| 2 | Gräte | VIIIa | ||||
| 3 | Kneiferkante | VIIIa | ||||
| 4 | Krawattenkante | VIIb | ||||
| 5 | Pyramidenweg | VIIa | ||||
| 6 | Talweg | VIIc | ||||
1.11. Bewachsener Turm 6 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.261616, 50.903682
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | VI | ||||
| 2 | Fleckenentferner | VIIIc | ||||
| 3 | Schartenkante | VIIa | ||||
| 4 | Schartenriß | VIIa | ||||
| 5 | Stiller Fleck | VIIIc | ||||
| 6 | Wand der Hirsche | IXb | ||||
1.12. Heringstein 132 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.261556, 50.905117
1.13. Prinz Karneval 7 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.261130, 50.906620
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | III | ||||
| 2 |
Alter Weg (oU)
without support | IV | ||||
| 3 | Glatte Wand | III | ||||
| 4 |
Glatte Wand (oU)
without support | IV | ||||
| 5 | Narrenaufzug | VI | ||||
| 6 | Närrische Grätsche | VI | ||||
| 7 | Waggilei | IXb | ||||
1.14. Heringsteinkegel 20 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.258732, 50.904575
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Abweg | III | ||||
| 2 | Direkte Nordostwand | Xa | ||||
| 3 | Direkter Faschingsauftakt | VIIc | ||||
| 4 | Fallinie | VIIIb | ||||
| 5 | Faschingsauftakt | VIIc | ||||
| 6 | Kanzelweg | VI | ||||
| 7 | Maske | VIIIb | ||||
| 8 | Nordostwand | VIIc | ||||
| 9 |
Nordostwand (oU)
without support | VIIIa | ||||
| 10 | Nordweg | V | ||||
| 11 |
Nordweg (oU)
without support | VIIa | ||||
| 12 | Schneeschmelze | IXb | ||||
| 13 | Spätzünder | IXa | ||||
| 14 | Sprung | II/2 | ||||
| 15 | Südkamin | III | ||||
| 16 | Südweg | V | ||||
| 17 | Tiefblick | VIIb | ||||
| 18 | Trauerkante | VIIc | ||||
| 19 |
Trauerkante (oU)
without support | VIIIb | ||||
| 20 | Völlig Losgelöst | VIIIc | ||||
1.15. Vorderer Versteckter Turm 18 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.257669, 50.906134
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ...und nächstes Jahr am Balaton | IXb | ||||
| 2 | Alter Weg | II | ||||
| 3 | Heringsrinne | |||||
| 4 | Nordkante | VIIa | ||||
| 5 | Nordrinne | III | ||||
| 6 | Ostverschneidung | VIIc | ||||
| 7 | Schartenweg | II | ||||
| 8 | Schlangenriß | VIIa | ||||
| 9 | Seidener Faden | IXa | ||||
| 10 | Südostwand | VIIIa | ||||
| 11 | Talkante | VIIc | ||||
| 12 | Talweg | VIIa | ||||
| 13 |
Talweg (oU)
without support | VIIc | ||||
| 14 | über den Wolken | Xa | ||||
| 15 | Übergangsweg | IV | ||||
| 16 | Variante zum Schartenweg | III | ||||
| 17 | Versteckte Hangel | VIIc | ||||
| 18 | Vorblockkante | VIIb | ||||
1.16. Hinterer Versteckter Turm 10 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.257323, 50.906038
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | II | ||||
| 2 | Kürzel | V | ||||
| 3 | Nordweg | III | ||||
| 4 | Nordwestweg | VI | ||||
| 5 | Südostriß | VIIc | ||||
| 6 | Südwestkante | VIIb | ||||
| 7 | Übergangsweg | III | ||||
| 8 | Variante zum Südostriß | VIIc | ||||
| 9 | Waldschlösschenbrücke | VIIa | ||||
| 10 | Zufallsweg | V | ||||
1.17. Försterlochturm 7 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | III | ||||
| 2 | Einflugschneise | VIIIa | ||||
| 3 | Nordrinne | VI | ||||
| 4 | Schartenweg | IV | ||||
| 5 | Talweg | VI | ||||
| 6 | Variante zum Alten Weg | VIIb | ||||
| 7 | Variante zum Bergweg | III | ||||
