A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Großer Wehlturm 19 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.073160, 50.963070

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg IVTrad
2 Da capo IXcTrad
3 Direkte Nordwestwand VIIIcTrad
4 Direkte Superlative (RP)

red point

XaTrad
5 Hünigwand VTrad
6 Hünigweg VITrad
7 Kleine Südwestwand VIIbTrad
8 Moderne Tradition (RP)

red point

XaTrad
9 Nordkante (RP)

red point

IXcTrad
10 Nordwestwand VIIIcTrad
11 Rengerweg VIIcTrad
12 Separater Einstieg XcTrad
13 Südwestwand VIIbTrad
14 Südwestwand mit Variante VIIbTrad
15 Superlative IXcTrad
16 Theaterstiege VIIcTrad
17 Theaterstiege (oU)

without support

VIIIaTrad
18 Variante zur Südwestwand VIIbTrad
19 Westkante VIIbTrad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
IV Alter Weg Trad
V Hünigwand Trad
VI Hünigweg Trad
VIIb Kleine Südwestwand Trad
Südwestwand Trad
Südwestwand mit Variante Trad
Variante zur Südwestwand Trad
Westkante Trad
VIIc Rengerweg Trad
Theaterstiege Trad
VIIIa Theaterstiege (oU) Trad
VIIIc Direkte Nordwestwand Trad
Nordwestwand Trad
IXc Da capo Trad
Nordkante (RP) Trad
Superlative Trad
Xa Direkte Superlative (RP) Trad
Moderne Tradition (RP) Trad
Xc Separater Einstieg Trad