A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Kraxelbrüderscheibe 20 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.064478, 50.961677

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg II Trad
2 Bolero (RP)

red point

VIIIc Trad
3 DE zum Sympatischen Weg VIIIa Trad
4 Direkter Sympathischer Weg VIIIa Trad
5 Eckfassade (RP)

red point

VIIIa Trad
6 Ganze Wand (RP)

red point

VIIIb Trad
7 Geburtstagskante V 1 Trad
8 Greifensteiner weg V Trad
9 Großgriffig und schön (RP)

red point

VIIc Trad
10 Halbe Wand VIIIa Trad
11 Heißer Tag VIIIb Trad
12 Kleiner Pfeiler IV Trad
13 Kurzer Flirt VIIc Trad
14 Nordkamin II Trad
15 Primärziel (RP)

red point

VIIIb Trad
16 Südwestweg IV Trad
17 Symphatischer Weg VIIIb Trad
18 Talkante VIIa Trad
19 Talkante (oU)

without support

VIIb Trad
20 Verkorkster Weg II Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
II Alter Weg Trad
Nordkamin Trad
Verkorkster Weg Trad
IV Kleiner Pfeiler Trad
Südwestweg Trad
V Greifensteiner weg Trad
V/1 Geburtstagskante Trad
VIIa Talkante Trad
VIIb Talkante (oU) Trad
VIIc Großgriffig und schön (RP) Trad
Kurzer Flirt Trad
VIIIa DE zum Sympatischen Weg Trad
Direkter Sympathischer Weg Trad
Eckfassade (RP) Trad
Halbe Wand Trad
VIIIb Ganze Wand (RP) Trad
Heißer Tag Trad
Primärziel (RP) Trad
Symphatischer Weg Trad
VIIIc Bolero (RP) Trad