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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Bellavista
VIIc
Trad
2 Cafe del Mare (RP)

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VIIIc
Trad
3 Diagonale
VIIb
Trad
4 Dir. Magistrale
VIIIa
Trad
5 Direkte Magistrale
VIIc
Trad
6 Hie und Hau
VIIc
Trad
7 Linienklau
VIIIb
Trad
8 Lug ins Land
VIIIa
Trad
9 Miss Rathen
VIIc
Trad
10 Muskelschwund
VIIIc
Trad
11 Nebelriß
VIIb
Trad
12 Neuer Talweg
VI
Trad
13 Nordostkamin
III
Trad
14 Nordostriß
VIIa
Trad
15 Rathewalder Wand
VIIc
Trad
16 Sand-Reise (RP)

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IXa
Trad
17 Schartenriß
VI
Trad
18 Schau mer mal (RP)

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VIIIb
Trad
19 Stirnseite
VIIIb
Trad
20 Südtirolerweg
VIIb
Trad
21 Südwestkamin
III
Trad
22 Südwestweg
VIIa
Trad
23 Sunset-Boulevard (RP)

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IXa
Trad
24 Talkamin
III
Trad
25 Talweg
V
Trad
26 Variante zum Nordostkamin
III
Trad
27 Walk of fame (RP)

red point

IXb
Trad
28 Was guckst du? (RP)

red point

VIIIb
Trad