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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX VIIc 40plus Trad
2
SX VIIIb Arbeitsteilung (RP) Trad

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4
SX Xb BlechmÄn (RP) Trad

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5
SX VIIIc Blitzvariante Trad
6
SX VIIIb DE zur Arbeitsteilung Trad
7
SX V Diagonale Trad
8
9

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10
SX VIIb Direkter Nordweg Trad
11
SX IXb Donnerwetter Trad
12
SX VIIa Fehrmannweg Trad
13
SX VIIb Geteilte Kante Trad
14
SX VIIc Klosterbruder Trad
16
SX VIIc Koyaanisqatsi Trad
17
SX VIIc Kreuzgang Trad
18
SX XIIb Meditation Trad
19
SX VIIIa Mönchslegende (RP) Trad

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20
SX IXa Mönchsrippe Trad
21
SX VIIc Nordkante Trad
22
SX VIIIc Nordostpfeiler (RP) Trad

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23
SX VIIb Nordostriß Trad
24
SX VIIIa Nordverschneidung Trad
25
SX V Nordweg Trad
26
SX VIIa NW-Verschneidung Trad
27
SX VIIIb Ostkante Trad
28
SX VIIIa Ostkante mit AV Trad
30
SX VIIIb Partielles Zölibat Trad
31
SX VIIc Pfeilerweg Trad
32
SX IXa Prismakante Trad
33
34
SX IXc Sakrileg Trad
35
SX Xb Sanskrit (RP) Trad

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36
SX VI Schlußvariante Trad
37
SX VIIIb Schubkarre Trad
38
SX IXb Schwarzer Abt Trad
40
SX VIIa Spätling Trad
41
SX III Südostweg Trad
42
SX VI Südweg Trad
43
SX VIIc Südwestwand Trad
46
SX VIIIc Verbindung (RP) Trad

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47
SX VIIc Vertikale Trad
48
SX VIIIa Wein, Weib und Gesang Trad
49
SX VI Westkante Trad
51
SX III Westweg Trad