A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Vorderer Hirschgrundturm 18 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.065875, 50.962272

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg II Trad
2 Direkter Ostriß IV Trad
3 Direkter Sommerrückblick VIIc Trad
4 DV zum Sommerrückblick VIIc Trad
5 Episode VIIc Trad
6 Harris Tip (RP)

red point

VIIIa Trad
7 Hochzeitsgeschenk (RP)

red point

IXa Trad
8 Kurze Rißspur VIIc Trad
9 Malle VIIIa Trad
10 Neuer Nordweg V Trad
11 Nordriß VIIc Trad
12 Nordweg III Trad
13 Ostriß IV Trad
14 Sommerrückblick VIIc Trad
15 Sonnenwand (RP)

red point

VIIIa Trad
16 Südostkante VIIa Trad
17 Südweg V Trad
18 Westkante VIIc Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
II Alter Weg Trad
III Nordweg Trad
IV Direkter Ostriß Trad
Ostriß Trad
V Neuer Nordweg Trad
Südweg Trad
VIIa Südostkante Trad
VIIc DV zum Sommerrückblick Trad
Direkter Sommerrückblick Trad
Episode Trad
Kurze Rißspur Trad
Nordriß Trad
Sommerrückblick Trad
Westkante Trad
VIIIa Harris Tip (RP) Trad
Malle Trad
Sonnenwand (RP) Trad
IXa Hochzeitsgeschenk (RP) Trad