Site navigation

Grade search

Leaderboard

Instant PDF

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Alter Weg
III
Trad
2 Alter Weg (oU)

without support

IV
Trad
3 Äolsharfe
VIIb
Trad
4 Basteiweg
VI
Trad
5 Bergbrüderweg
VI
Trad
6 Blitzriß
VIIb
Trad
7 Direkte Nordwestwand
VIIIc
Trad
8 Direkter Elbweg
VIIc
Trad
9 Eisgang (RP)

red point

IXc
Trad
10 Elbweg
VIIb
Trad
11 EV zum AW
V
Trad
12 Frühlingsauftakt
VIIb
Trad
13 Gelbkreuz
VIIIb
Trad
14 Hauruck
VIIb
Trad
15 Miniakt
VIIb
Trad
16 Miniakt (oU)

without support

VIIIa
Trad
17 Mittelweg
Trad
18 Nette Variante zur Südwand
VIIc
Trad
19 Nolens Volens
Xa
Trad
20 Nordriß
VIIa
Trad
21 Nordwand
VIIIb
Trad
22 Nordweg
IV
Trad
23 Nordwestwand
VIIIb
Trad
24 Nordwestweg
VI
Trad
25 Primaballerina (RP)

red point

IXc
Trad
26 Sonnenspiel
VIIb
Trad
27 Spottkletterwand
IXa
Trad
28 Südkante
VIIa
Trad
29 Südostweg
V
Trad
30 Südwand
VIIa
Trad
31 Tanz in der Sonne
VIIa
Trad
32 Variante zum Alten Weg
V
Trad
33 Variante zum Elbweg
VIIc
Trad
34 Westkante
VIIb
Trad
35 Westkante (oU)

without support

VIIIa
Trad