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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} III Alter Weg Trad
2
{SX} IV Alter Weg (oU) Trad

without support

3
{SX} VIIb Äolsharfe Trad
4
{SX} VI Basteiweg Trad
5
{SX} VI Bergbrüderweg Trad
6
{SX} VIIb Blitzriß Trad
7
{SX} VIIIc Direkte Nordwestwand Trad
8
{SX} VIIc Direkter Elbweg Trad
9
{SX} IXc Eisgang (RP) Trad

red point

10
{SX} VIIb Elbweg Trad
11
{SX} V EV zum AW Trad
12
{SX} VIIb Frühlingsauftakt Trad
13
{SX} VIIIb Gelbkreuz Trad
14
{SX} VIIb Hauruck Trad
15
{SX} VIIb Miniakt Trad
16
{SX} VIIIa Miniakt (oU) Trad

without support

17
19
{SX} Xa Nolens Volens Trad
20
{SX} VIIa Nordriß Trad
21
{SX} VIIIb Nordwand Trad
22
{SX} IV Nordweg Trad
23
{SX} VIIIb Nordwestwand Trad
24
{SX} VI Nordwestweg Trad
25
{SX} IXc Primaballerina (RP) Trad

red point

26
{SX} VIIb Sonnenspiel Trad
27
{SX} IXa Spottkletterwand Trad
28
{SX} VIIa Südkante Trad
29
{SX} V Südostweg Trad
30
{SX} VIIa Südwand Trad
31
{SX} VIIa Tanz in der Sonne Trad
33
{SX} VIIc Variante zum Elbweg Trad
34
{SX} VIIb Westkante Trad
35
{SX} VIIIa Westkante (oU) Trad

without support