A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Wartturm 35 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.068941, 50.961364

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg IIITrad
2 Alter Weg (oU)

without support

IVTrad
3 Äolsharfe VIIbTrad
4 Basteiweg VITrad
5 Bergbrüderweg VITrad
6 Blitzriß VIIbTrad
7 Direkte Nordwestwand VIIIcTrad
8 Direkter Elbweg VIIcTrad
9 Eisgang (RP)

red point

IXcTrad
10 Elbweg VIIbTrad
11 EV zum AW VTrad
12 Frühlingsauftakt VIIbTrad
13 Gelbkreuz VIIIbTrad
14 Hauruck VIIbTrad
15 Miniakt VIIbTrad
16 Miniakt (oU)

without support

VIIIaTrad
17 Mittelweg Trad
18 Nette Variante zur Südwand VIIcTrad
19 Nolens Volens XaTrad
20 Nordriß VIIaTrad
21 Nordwand VIIIbTrad
22 Nordweg IVTrad
23 Nordwestwand VIIIbTrad
24 Nordwestweg VITrad
25 Primaballerina (RP)

red point

IXcTrad
26 Sonnenspiel VIIbTrad
27 Spottkletterwand IXaTrad
28 Südkante VIIaTrad
29 Südostweg VTrad
30 Südwand VIIaTrad
31 Tanz in der Sonne VIIaTrad
32 Variante zum Alten Weg VTrad
33 Variante zum Elbweg VIIcTrad
34 Westkante VIIbTrad
35 Westkante (oU)

without support

VIIIaTrad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
III Alter Weg Trad
IV Alter Weg (oU) Trad
Nordweg Trad
V EV zum AW Trad
Südostweg Trad
Variante zum Alten Weg Trad
VI Basteiweg Trad
Bergbrüderweg Trad
Nordwestweg Trad
VIIa Nordriß Trad
Südkante Trad
Südwand Trad
Tanz in der Sonne Trad
VIIb Blitzriß Trad
Elbweg Trad
Frühlingsauftakt Trad
Hauruck Trad
Miniakt Trad
Sonnenspiel Trad
Westkante Trad
Äolsharfe Trad
VIIc Direkter Elbweg Trad
Nette Variante zur Südwand Trad
Variante zum Elbweg Trad
VIIIa Miniakt (oU) Trad
Westkante (oU) Trad
VIIIb Gelbkreuz Trad
Nordwand Trad
Nordwestwand Trad
VIIIc Direkte Nordwestwand Trad
IXa Spottkletterwand Trad
IXc Eisgang (RP) Trad
Primaballerina (RP) Trad
Xa Nolens Volens Trad
? Mittelweg Trad