A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Wartturm 35 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.068941, 50.961364

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg III Trad
2 Alter Weg (oU)

without support

IV Trad
3 Äolsharfe VIIb Trad
4 Basteiweg VI Trad
5 Bergbrüderweg VI Trad
6 Blitzriß VIIb Trad
7 Direkte Nordwestwand VIIIc Trad
8 Direkter Elbweg VIIc Trad
9 Eisgang (RP)

red point

IXc Trad
10 Elbweg VIIb Trad
11 EV zum AW V Trad
12 Frühlingsauftakt VIIb Trad
13 Gelbkreuz VIIIb Trad
14 Hauruck VIIb Trad
15 Miniakt VIIb Trad
16 Miniakt (oU)

without support

VIIIa Trad
17 Mittelweg Trad
18 Nette Variante zur Südwand VIIc Trad
19 Nolens Volens Xa Trad
20 Nordriß VIIa Trad
21 Nordwand VIIIb Trad
22 Nordweg IV Trad
23 Nordwestwand VIIIb Trad
24 Nordwestweg VI Trad
25 Primaballerina (RP)

red point

IXc Trad
26 Sonnenspiel VIIb Trad
27 Spottkletterwand IXa Trad
28 Südkante VIIa Trad
29 Südostweg V Trad
30 Südwand VIIa Trad
31 Tanz in der Sonne VIIa Trad
32 Variante zum Alten Weg V Trad
33 Variante zum Elbweg VIIc Trad
34 Westkante VIIb Trad
35 Westkante (oU)

without support

VIIIa Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
III Alter Weg Trad
IV Alter Weg (oU) Trad
Nordweg Trad
V EV zum AW Trad
Südostweg Trad
Variante zum Alten Weg Trad
VI Basteiweg Trad
Bergbrüderweg Trad
Nordwestweg Trad
VIIa Nordriß Trad
Südkante Trad
Südwand Trad
Tanz in der Sonne Trad
VIIb Blitzriß Trad
Elbweg Trad
Frühlingsauftakt Trad
Hauruck Trad
Miniakt Trad
Sonnenspiel Trad
Westkante Trad
Äolsharfe Trad
VIIc Direkter Elbweg Trad
Nette Variante zur Südwand Trad
Variante zum Elbweg Trad
VIIIa Miniakt (oU) Trad
Westkante (oU) Trad
VIIIb Gelbkreuz Trad
Nordwand Trad
Nordwestwand Trad
VIIIc Direkte Nordwestwand Trad
IXa Spottkletterwand Trad
IXc Eisgang (RP) Trad
Primaballerina (RP) Trad
Xa Nolens Volens Trad
? Mittelweg Trad