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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Areas

Map Name Style Climbs Ascents Height Grade Band Topos
1Wehlkegel Cliff All Trad 70
2Hinterer Basteiturm Cliff All Trad 110
3Musketier Cliff All Trad 80
4Bergpirat Cliff All Trad 80
5Schneider Wibbel Cliff All Trad 130
6Margaretenspitze Cliff All Trad 80
7Doppelkopf Cliff All Trad 100
8Torsteiner Turm Cliff All Trad 220
9Zitronenkopf Cliff All Trad 150
10Grenadierturm Cliff All Trad 120
11Witzbold Cliff All Trad 121
12Grafenspitze Cliff All Trad 70
13Wehlgrundwächter Cliff All Trad 90
14Basteiturm Cliff All Trad 130
15Wehlscheibe Cliff All Trad 100
16Höhlenturm Cliff All Trad 110
17Wehlgrundspitze Cliff All Trad 110
18Wehlhorn Cliff All Trad 40
19Basteiwächter Cliff All Trad 90
20Felsensternscheibe Cliff All Trad 40
21Aschelochturm Cliff All Trad 70
22Felsensportturm Cliff All Trad 60
23Zugvogelspitze Cliff All Trad 40
24Schwarze Säule Cliff All Trad 30
25Pate Cliff All Trad 30
26Ferdinandturm Cliff All Trad 50
27Taufstein Cliff All Trad 260
28Sieberturm Cliff All Trad 190
29Jahrhundertturm Cliff All Trad 81
30Rudolf-Holtz-Turm Cliff All Trad 50
31Mittlerer Wehlturm Cliff All Trad 160
32Basteischluchtturm Cliff All Trad 110
33Großer Wehlturm Cliff All Trad 190
34Steinschleuder Cliff All Trad 302
35Wehlkopf Cliff All Trad 100
36Langer Israel Cliff All Trad 120
37Kleiner Wehlturm Cliff All Trad 140
38Reh Cliff All Trad 100
39Neurathener Felsentor Cliff All Trad 182
40Verlorener Turm Cliff All Trad 120
41Biene Cliff All Trad 101
42Tiedgestein Cliff All Trad 72
43Mönch Cliff All Trad 511