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Area Guide for Hirschgrund
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Table of contents
- 1. Hirschgrund
251 in Area
- 1.1. Hirschgrundscheibe 7 in Cliff
- 1.2. Querkopf 4 in Cliff
- 1.3. Kraxelbrüderscheibe 20 in Cliff
- 1.4. Doktor 14 in Cliff
- 1.5. Assistent 27 in Cliff
- 1.6. Patient 8 in Cliff
- 1.7. Hinterer Hirschgrundturm 19 in Cliff
- 1.8. Wilddieb 15 in Cliff
- 1.9. Hirschgrundkegel 20 in Cliff
- 1.10. Mittlerer Hirschgrundturm 16 in Cliff
- 1.11. Vorderer Hirschgrundturm 18 in Cliff
- 1.12. Scherge 8 in Cliff
- 1.13. Lochturm 10 in Cliff
- 1.14. Hirschgrundwarte 19 in Cliff
- 1.15. Adolf-Hermann-Fels 11 in Cliff
- 1.16. Wartturm 35 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Hirschgrund 251 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad
Long/Lat: 14.065554, 50.962429
- Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz
-
Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .
- Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz
-
You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:
- Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
- No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
- No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
- no chalk, no pof
- Sign the summit register.
- Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
- Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
- Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
1.1. Hirschgrundscheibe 7 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.064142, 50.962904
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | VIIb | ||||
| 2 |
Alter Weg (oU)
without support | VIIIa | ||||
| 3 | Flop | IXa | ||||
| 4 | Sonnenseite | VIIb | ||||
| 5 |
Sonnenseite (oU)
without support | VIIc | ||||
| 6 | Talweg | VIIIb | ||||
| 7 | Xanadu | IXa | ||||
1.2. Querkopf 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.064351, 50.962174
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | V | ||||
| 2 | Nordwestriß | V | ||||
| 3 | Talriß | VIIa | ||||
| 4 | Westkante | V | ||||
1.3. Kraxelbrüderscheibe 20 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.064478, 50.961677
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | II | ||||
| 2 |
Bolero (RP)
red point | VIIIc | ||||
| 3 | DE zum Sympatischen Weg | VIIIa | ||||
| 4 | Direkter Sympathischer Weg | VIIIa | ||||
| 5 |
Eckfassade (RP)
red point | VIIIa | ||||
| 6 |
Ganze Wand (RP)
red point | VIIIb | ||||
| 7 | Geburtstagskante | V/1 | ||||
| 8 | Greifensteiner weg | V | ||||
| 9 |
Großgriffig und schön (RP)
red point | VIIc | ||||
| 10 | Halbe Wand | VIIIa | ||||
| 11 | Heißer Tag | VIIIb | ||||
| 12 | Kleiner Pfeiler | IV | ||||
| 13 | Kurzer Flirt | VIIc | ||||
| 14 | Nordkamin | II | ||||
| 15 |
Primärziel (RP)
red point | VIIIb | ||||
| 16 | Südwestweg | IV | ||||
| 17 | Symphatischer Weg | VIIIb | ||||
| 18 | Talkante | VIIa | ||||
| 19 |
Talkante (oU)
without support | VIIb | ||||
| 20 | Verkorkster Weg | II | ||||
1.4. Doktor 14 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.064812, 50.963944
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | V | ||||
| 2 | EV zur Talseite | VIIc | ||||
| 3 | LMA-Tablette | VI | ||||
| 4 |
LMA-Tablette (oU)
without support | VIIa | ||||
| 5 | Mittenvariante | VIIc | ||||
| 6 | Nebenstrasse | VIIIa | ||||
| 7 | Nordwestkante | VIIIb | ||||
| 8 | Nordwestweg | V | ||||
| 9 | Später Weg | VIIc | ||||
| 10 | Sprechstunde | |||||
| 11 |
Sprechstunde (oU)
without support | VIIIa | ||||
| 12 | Talseite | VIIc | ||||
| 13 | Variante zum Alten Weg | VIIb | ||||
| 14 | Variante zum AW | VIIb | ||||
1.5. Assistent 27 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.064921, 50.963689
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | V | ||||
| 2 | Direkter Pfingstweg | VIIc | ||||
| 3 | Gefundenes Glück | VIIb | ||||
| 4 | Klare Sache | VIIa | ||||
| 5 | Letzter Nordwestriß | VIIIa | ||||
| 6 | Linker Zwillingsriß | VIIc | ||||
| 7 | Nordwestkamin | IV | ||||
| 8 | Nordwestpfeiler | VIIc | ||||
| 9 | Nordwestriß | VIIb | ||||
| 10 | Ostwand | V | ||||
| 11 | Ostweg | V | ||||
| 12 | Pfingstweg | VIIb | ||||
| 13 | Rechter Zwillingsriß | VIIc | ||||
| 14 | Schartenweg | V | ||||
| 15 | Südostriß | VIIb | ||||
| 16 | Südostverschneidung | VIIa | ||||
| 17 | Südwestgrat | VIIIa | ||||
| 18 | Talweg | VI | ||||
| 19 | Tunnelweg | IV | ||||
| 20 | Variante zum Alten Weg | VI | ||||
| 21 | Variante zum Schartenweg | V | ||||
| 22 | Viadukt | VI | ||||
| 23 |
Wand neben dem Winkel (RP)
red point | VIIIc | ||||
| 24 |
Wandmitte (RP)
red point | VIIIc | ||||
| 25 | Westflügel | VIIIb | ||||
| 26 | Westriß | VIIb | ||||
| 27 | Zufallsweg | VIIc | ||||
1.6. Patient 8 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.064987, 50.963869
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | VI | ||||
| 2 | Dauerpatient | VIIb | ||||
| 3 |
Kurz und schmerzlos (RP)
red point | VIIc | ||||
| 4 | Nordweg | VIIIa | ||||
| 5 |
Praxisgebühr (RP)
red point | VIIb | ||||
| 6 | Rißvariante | V | ||||
| 7 | Rißvariante zum Alten Weg | V | ||||
| 8 | Schrei ohne Ton | VIIIa | ||||
1.7. Hinterer Hirschgrundturm 19 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.065335, 50.963216
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | III/2 | ||||
| 2 | DA zur Nordostwand | VIIIc | ||||
| 3 | Direkte Nordostwand | VIIIc | ||||
| 4 | Nordostwand | VIIIc | ||||
| 5 | Nordwestriß | VIIc | ||||
| 6 | Nordwestweg | VIIc | ||||
| 7 | Oktoberweg | VIIb | ||||
| 8 | Ostweg | VIIb | ||||
| 9 | Schartenpfeiler | VIIa | ||||
| 10 | Südostkamin | V | ||||
| 11 | Südostriß | V | ||||
| 12 | Südostvariante | V | ||||
| 13 | Südostvariante zum AW | V | ||||
| 14 | Südostwand | VIIb | ||||
| 15 | Südwestwand | VIIc/2 | ||||
| 16 | Talkante | VIIIa | ||||
| 17 | Variante zum Südostriß | V | ||||
| 18 | Westkamin | IV | ||||
| 19 | Westvariante | V | ||||
1.8. Wilddieb 15 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.065566, 50.962858
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | II | ||||
| 2 | Angespreizte Kante | VI | ||||
| 3 | Buschgespenst | VIIa | ||||
| 4 | Fallensteller | VI | ||||
| 5 | Hirschkeule | VIIa | ||||
| 6 |
Hirschkeule (oU)
without support | VIIb | ||||
| 7 | Jagdglück | VIIb | ||||
| 8 | Junger Hirsch | IXb | ||||
| 9 | Krumme Finger | VIIIa | ||||
| 10 |
Kübelbock (RP)
red point | VIIIb | ||||
| 11 | Südostkante | IV | ||||
| 12 | Talriß | VI | ||||
| 13 | Westweg | II | ||||
| 14 | Widmannsheil | VIIb | ||||
| 15 | Wildbret | IV | ||||
1.9. Hirschgrundkegel 20 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.065743, 50.961998
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | IV | ||||
| 2 | Edelweißvariante | VI | ||||
| 3 | Edelweißvariante zum Alten Weg | VI | ||||
| 4 | Empore | VIIa | ||||
| 5 | Emporkante | V | ||||
| 6 | Gebogener Weg | VIIb | ||||
| 7 | Hirschfänger | VIIa | ||||
| 8 | Hirschhornsalz | VI | ||||
| 9 | Hirschkäfer | VIIa | ||||
| 10 | Nordvariante zum Alten Weg | VIIa | ||||
| 11 | Nordvariante zum AW | VIIa | ||||
| 12 | Nordvariante zum AW (mit Erwähnung) | IV | ||||
| 13 | Ostkante | VI | ||||
| 14 | Ostwand | VIIa | ||||
| 15 |
Rufmord (RP)
red point | VIIIa | ||||
| 16 | Südostwand | VIIa | ||||
| 17 | Talwand | VI | ||||
| 18 | Talwandmitte | VIIb | ||||
| 19 | Verlängerung | VIIb | ||||
| 20 | Westkante | VI | ||||
1.10. Mittlerer Hirschgrundturm 16 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.065592, 50.962530
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | III | ||||
| 2 | Arschgeweih | IXb | ||||
| 3 | Diagonale | VIIa | ||||
| 4 |
Direkte Ostwand (RP)
red point | VIIIb | ||||
| 5 | Erwähnung (Neue Ostwand) | VIIIb | ||||
| 6 |
Hirschbeutel (RP)
red point | IXa | ||||
| 7 |
Jagdhorn (RP)
red point | IXa | ||||
| 8 | Linke EV zum AW | V | ||||
| 9 | Mittelvariante zum Südweg | VIIc | ||||
| 10 | Nordweg | VIIb | ||||
| 11 | Ostwand | VIIIa | ||||
| 12 | Scharlatan | VIIb | ||||
| 13 | Südweg | IV | ||||
| 14 | Südweg mit Variante | VI | ||||
| 15 | Variante zum Südweg | VIIb | ||||
| 16 | Westweg | VIIc | ||||
1.11. Vorderer Hirschgrundturm 18 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.065875, 50.962272
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | II | ||||
| 2 | Direkter Ostriß | IV | ||||
| 3 | Direkter Sommerrückblick | VIIc | ||||
| 4 | DV zum Sommerrückblick | VIIc | ||||
| 5 | Episode | VIIc | ||||
| 6 |
Harris Tip (RP)
red point | VIIIa | ||||
| 7 |
Hochzeitsgeschenk (RP)
red point | IXa | ||||
| 8 | Kurze Rißspur | VIIc | ||||
| 9 | Malle | VIIIa | ||||
| 10 | Neuer Nordweg | V | ||||
| 11 | Nordriß | VIIc | ||||
| 12 | Nordweg | III | ||||
| 13 | Ostriß | IV | ||||
| 14 | Sommerrückblick | VIIc | ||||
| 15 |
Sonnenwand (RP)
red point | VIIIa | ||||
| 16 | Südostkante | VIIa | ||||
| 17 | Südweg | V | ||||
| 18 | Westkante | VIIc | ||||
1.12. Scherge 8 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.066173, 50.962102
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | III | ||||
| 2 | Direkte Ostkante | VI | ||||
| 3 | Lustiger Denunziant | VI | ||||
| 4 | Neuer Talweg | V | ||||
| 5 | Ostkante | IV | ||||
| 6 | Schartenweg | VI | ||||
| 7 | Talweg | IV | ||||
| 8 | Variante zur Ostkante | V | ||||
1.13. Lochturm 10 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.066517, 50.961876
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | II | ||||
| 2 | Diagonale | VIIa | ||||
| 3 | EV zum Alten Weg | IV | ||||
| 4 | EV zum AW | IV | ||||
| 5 | Lochkante | VIIb | ||||
| 6 | Nordwand | VIIc | ||||
| 7 | Pulsschlag | VIIIa | ||||
| 8 | Schlagloch | VIIc | ||||
| 9 | Südwand | VIIb | ||||
| 10 | Westweg | IV | ||||
1.14. Hirschgrundwarte 19 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.067340, 50.961667
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | II | ||||
| 2 | Bergweg | I/1 | ||||
| 3 | Direkte Nordkante | VIIa | ||||
| 4 |
Gepfefferte Sache (RP)
red point | IXa | ||||
| 5 | Kluftweg | IV | ||||
| 6 | Kurze Kante | V | ||||
| 7 | Nordkante | VIIa | ||||
| 8 | Nordriß | V | ||||
| 9 | Nordweg | VI | ||||
| 10 | Pfefferkorn | VIIc | ||||
| 11 | Plattenkamin | II | ||||
| 12 | Sonnenwendweg | VI | ||||
| 13 | Südostweg | IV | ||||
| 14 | Südverschneidung | III | ||||
| 15 | Südwand | VIIb | ||||
| 16 | Südweg | IV | ||||
| 17 | Talweg | VIIa | ||||
| 18 | Weg für Schlanke | III | ||||
| 19 | Westriß | VI | ||||
1.15. Adolf-Hermann-Fels 11 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.068509, 50.961251
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | V | ||||
| 2 | Fragezeichen | VI | ||||
| 3 | Freiberger Weg | VI | ||||
| 4 | Frühlingssprung | 4 | ||||
| 5 | Graue Kante | VIIIb | ||||
| 6 | Kurz vorm Ende | VIIIb | ||||
| 7 | Neuer Weg | VI | ||||
| 8 | Ostkante | V | ||||
| 9 | Randnotiz | VIIIa | ||||
| 10 | Septemberweg | VI | ||||
| 11 | Talwand | VIIb | ||||
1.16. Wartturm 35 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.068941, 50.961364
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | III | ||||
| 2 |
Alter Weg (oU)
without support | IV | ||||
| 3 | Äolsharfe | VIIb | ||||
| 4 | Basteiweg | VI | ||||
| 5 | Bergbrüderweg | VI | ||||
| 6 | Blitzriß | VIIb | ||||
| 7 | Direkte Nordwestwand | VIIIc | ||||
| 8 | Direkter Elbweg | VIIc | ||||
| 9 |
Eisgang (RP)
red point | IXc | ||||
| 10 | Elbweg | VIIb | ||||
| 11 | EV zum AW | V | ||||
| 12 | Frühlingsauftakt | VIIb | ||||
| 13 | Gelbkreuz | VIIIb | ||||
| 14 | Hauruck | VIIb | ||||
| 15 | Miniakt | VIIb | ||||
| 16 |
Miniakt (oU)
without support | VIIIa | ||||
| 17 | Mittelweg | |||||
| 18 | Nette Variante zur Südwand | VIIc | ||||
| 19 | Nolens Volens | Xa | ||||
| 20 | Nordriß | VIIa | ||||
| 21 | Nordwand | VIIIb | ||||
| 22 | Nordweg | IV | ||||
| 23 | Nordwestwand | VIIIb | ||||
| 24 | Nordwestweg | VI | ||||
| 25 |
Primaballerina (RP)
red point | IXc | ||||
| 26 | Sonnenspiel | VIIb | ||||
| 27 | Spottkletterwand | IXa | ||||
| 28 | Südkante | VIIa | ||||
| 29 | Südostweg | V | ||||
| 30 | Südwand | VIIa | ||||
| 31 | Tanz in der Sonne | VIIa | ||||
| 32 | Variante zum Alten Weg | V | ||||
| 33 | Variante zum Elbweg | VIIc | ||||
| 34 | Westkante | VIIb | ||||
| 35 |
Westkante (oU)
without support | VIIIa | ||||
