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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Areas

Map Name Style Climbs Ascents Height Grade Band Topos
1Wassermann Cliff All Trad 100
2Bierturm Cliff All Trad 110
3Axelturm Cliff All Trad 80
4Kanzelscheibe Cliff All Trad 50
5Pavillonwächter Cliff All Trad 101
6Habicht Cliff All Trad 70
7Echse Cliff All Trad 40
8Statist Cliff All Trad 121
9Bergfreund Cliff All Trad 80
10Bergfreundeturm Cliff All Trad 212
11Schalk Cliff All Trad 81
12Wehlnadel Cliff All Trad 50
13Souffleur Cliff All Trad 143
14Gänseei Cliff All Trad 40
15Plattenstein Cliff All Trad 300
16Raaber Kegel Cliff All Trad 50
17Raaber Scheibe Cliff All Trad 70
18Kulisse Cliff All Trad 70
19Hinterer Gansfels Cliff All Trad 331
20Raaber Wand Cliff All Trad 110
21Scheich Cliff All Trad 40
22Raaber Nadel Cliff All Trad 80
23Trockener Turm Cliff All Trad 100
24Gansturm Cliff All Trad 80
25Mittlerer Gansfels Cliff All Trad 70
26Raaber Säule Cliff All Trad 120
27Suleika Cliff All Trad 70
28Emir Cliff All Trad 90
29Vorderer Gansfels Cliff All Trad 250
30Raaber Turm Cliff All Trad 90
31Ganskopf Cliff All Trad 110
32Gansriff Cliff All Trad 111
33Gansscheibe Cliff All Trad 80