Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} VIIb Abendvariante Trad
2
{SX} Xa Abschneider (RP) Trad

red point

3
{SX} VIIc Alte Nordwestwand Trad
4
{SX} II Alter Südweg Trad
5
{SX} I Alter Weg Trad
7
{SX} VIIa Ausweg Trad
8
{SX} VIIa AV zum Neuberweg Trad
9
{SX} VIIb Barthweg Trad
10
{SX} VIIIa Begradigung Trad
11
{SX} III Blockkamin Trad
12
13
{SX} IXc Direkte Nordkante Trad
14
{SX} IXa Direkte Nordostwand Trad
15
{SX} IXa Direkte Ostkante Trad
16
{SX} VIIIb Direkte Südwand (RP) Trad

red point

17
{SX} IXb DirekteNorostwand Trad
18
{SX} Xa Dreizug Trad
19
{SX} Xa El Nino (RP) Trad

red point

20
{SX} VIIa Emporweg Trad
21
{SX} VIIIa Eremitenpfad Trad
22
{SX} VI EV zum Neuberweg Trad
23

red point

24
{SX} VIIc Feiner Einstieg Trad
26

without support

27
{SX} Xa Folterknecht Trad
28
{SX} IV Freundschaftsweg Trad
29
{SX} VIIc Gemeinschaftsweg Trad
30
{SX} VIIc Gemischte Gefühle Trad
31

red point

32
{SX} VIIIa Gondakante Trad
33
{SX} IV Greterweg Trad
34
{SX} VIIIb Handstreich Trad
35
{SX} Xb Hexentanz (RP) Trad

red point

36
{SX} III Hinterer Weg Trad
37
{SX} VIIIb Hohe Wand (RP) Trad

red point

38
{SX} IXa Hurrican Trad
39
{SX} VIIIc Invalidenvariante Trad
40
{SX} V Kanzelpredigt Trad
41
{SX} VIIa Kesseltürmerweg Trad
42
{SX} IXa Klappstuhl (RP) Trad

red point

43
{SX} II Klemmweg Trad
44
{SX} V Knappenweg Trad
46
{SX} IXc Kurze Nordwestwand Trad
47
{SX} IXc Lange Nordwestwand Trad
48

red point

49
{SX} VIIb Leitmerizer Variante Trad
50
{SX} V Neuberweg Trad
51
{SX} VIIIa Neuer Schartenweg Trad
52
{SX} VIIa Neuer Südweg Trad
53
{SX} IXb Nordkante Trad
54
{SX} III Nordostkamin Trad
55
{SX} VIIa Nordostriß Trad
56
{SX} IXb Nordostwand Trad
57
{SX} V Nordostweg Trad
58
{SX} VIIc Nordriß Trad
59
{SX} IV Nordwestweg Trad
60
{SX} II Osterweg Trad
61
{SX} VIIa Ostkante Trad
62
{SX} VIIb Ostkante (oU) Trad

without support

63
{SX} VIIb Pfingstweg Trad
64
{SX} VIIc Querflöte Trad
65
{SX} VIIc Rehapfeiler Trad
66
{SX} V Ritterschlag Trad
67
{SX} IV Sandweg Trad
68
{SX} V Schartenweg Trad
69
{SX} VI Schartenweg (oU) Trad

without support

70
{SX} VIIIa Schaukelstuhl Trad
71
{SX} VIIIb Schluchtkante Trad
72
{SX} VIIIa Schluchtwand Trad
73
{SX} V Schluchtweg Trad
74
{SX} VIIIb Schöne Wand (RP) Trad

red point

75
{SX} VIIIc Schönheitspreis (RP) Trad

red point

76
{SX} VIIc Schwarze Rampe Trad
77
{SX} IXb Sitzkrieg Trad
78
{SX} VIIb Sonnenwendweg Trad
79
{SX} VIIIa Speckverschneidung Trad
80
{SX} IXb Stirnkante Trad
81
{SX} VIIa Stollepfeiler Trad
82
{SX} VIIc Stollepfeiler (oU) Mixed 2

without support

FA: Rudolf Stolle, W. Engelmann & H. Scheinpflug, 16th Jul

83
{SX} VIIIa Südwand Trad
84
{SX} VIIa Talseite Trad
85
{SX} IV Trautmannweg Trad
88
{SX} IXa Volkssport Trad
90
{SX} III wächterkamin Trad
91
{SX} Xa Walpurgisnacht Trad
92
{SX} VIIa Weg ins Mittelalter Trad
93
{SX} VIIa Wurstkamin Trad
94
{SX} VIIa Zickzackkurs Trad