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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
VIIb Abendvariante Trad
2

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4
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I Alter Weg Trad
7
VIIa Ausweg Trad
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9
VIIb Barthweg Trad
10
VIIIa Begradigung Trad
11
III Blockkamin Trad
15
16

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18
Xa Dreizug Trad
19
Xa El Nino (RP) Trad

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20
VIIa Emporweg Trad
21
VIIIa Eremitenpfad Trad
23

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24
VIIc Feiner Einstieg Trad
27
Xa Folterknecht Trad
29
31

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32
VIIIa Gondakante Trad
33
IV Greterweg Trad
34
VIIIb Handstreich Trad
35

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36
III Hinterer Weg Trad
37
VIIIb Hohe Wand (RP) Trad

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38
IXa Hurrican Trad
39
VIIIc Invalidenvariante Trad
40
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42

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43
II Klemmweg Trad
44
V Knappenweg Trad
48

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50
V Neuberweg Trad
51
VIIIa Neuer Schartenweg Trad
52
VIIa Neuer Südweg Trad
53
IXb Nordkante Trad
54
III Nordostkamin Trad
55
VIIa Nordostriß Trad
56
IXb Nordostwand Trad
57
V Nordostweg Trad
58
VIIc Nordriß Trad
59
IV Nordwestweg Trad
60
II Osterweg Trad
61
VIIa Ostkante Trad
62
VIIb * Ostkante (oU) Trad

without support

63
VIIb Pfingstweg Trad
64
VIIc Querflöte Trad
65
VIIc Rehapfeiler Trad
66
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IV Sandweg Trad
68
V Schartenweg Trad
69

without support

70
VIIIa Schaukelstuhl Trad
71
VIIIb Schluchtkante Trad
72
VIIIa Schluchtwand Trad
73
V Schluchtweg Trad
74
VIIIb Schöne Wand (RP) Trad

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75

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76
VIIc Schwarze Rampe Trad
77
IXb Sitzkrieg Trad
78
VIIb Sonnenwendweg Trad
79
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IXb Stirnkante Trad
81
VIIa Stollepfeiler Trad
82
VIIc * Stollepfeiler (oU) Mixed 2

without support

FA: Rudolf Stolle, W. Engelmann & H. Scheinpflug, 1939

83
VIIIa Südwand Trad
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VIIa Talseite Trad
85
IV Trautmannweg Trad
88
IXa Volkssport Trad
90
III wächterkamin Trad
91
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VIIa Wurstkamin Trad
94
VIIa Zickzackkurs Trad

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