Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX VIIb Abendvariante Trad
2
SX Xa Abschneider (RP) Trad

red point

3
SX VIIc Alte Nordwestwand Trad
4
SX II Alter Südweg Trad
5
SX I Alter Weg Trad
7
SX VIIa Ausweg Trad
8
SX VIIa AV zum Neuberweg Trad
9
SX VIIb Barthweg Trad
10
SX VIIIa Begradigung Trad
11
SX III Blockkamin Trad
13
SX IXc Direkte Nordkante Trad
14
15
SX IXa Direkte Ostkante Trad
16
SX VIIIb Direkte Südwand (RP) Trad

red point

17
SX IXb DirekteNorostwand Trad
18
SX Xa Dreizug Trad
19
SX Xa El Nino (RP) Trad

red point

20
SX VIIa Emporweg Trad
21
SX VIIIa Eremitenpfad Trad
22
SX VI EV zum Neuberweg Trad
23

red point

24
SX VIIc Feiner Einstieg Trad
26

without support

27
SX Xa Folterknecht Trad
28
SX IV Freundschaftsweg Trad
29
SX VIIc Gemeinschaftsweg Trad
30
SX VIIc Gemischte Gefühle Trad
31

red point

32
SX VIIIa Gondakante Trad
33
SX IV Greterweg Trad
34
SX VIIIb Handstreich Trad
35
SX Xb Hexentanz (RP) Trad

red point

36
SX III Hinterer Weg Trad
37
SX VIIIb Hohe Wand (RP) Trad

red point

38
SX IXa Hurrican Trad
39
SX VIIIc Invalidenvariante Trad
40
SX V Kanzelpredigt Trad
41
SX VIIa Kesseltürmerweg Trad
42
SX IXa Klappstuhl (RP) Trad

red point

43
SX II Klemmweg Trad
44
SX V Knappenweg Trad
46
SX IXc Kurze Nordwestwand Trad
47
SX IXc Lange Nordwestwand Trad
48

red point

49
SX VIIb Leitmerizer Variante Trad
50
SX V Neuberweg Trad
51
SX VIIIa Neuer Schartenweg Trad
52
SX VIIa Neuer Südweg Trad
53
SX IXb Nordkante Trad
54
SX III Nordostkamin Trad
55
SX VIIa Nordostriß Trad
56
SX IXb Nordostwand Trad
57
SX V Nordostweg Trad
58
SX VIIc Nordriß Trad
59
SX IV Nordwestweg Trad
60
SX II Osterweg Trad
61
SX VIIa Ostkante Trad
62
SX VIIb Ostkante (oU) Trad

without support

63
SX VIIb Pfingstweg Trad
64
SX VIIc Querflöte Trad
65
SX VIIc Rehapfeiler Trad
66
SX V Ritterschlag Trad
67
SX IV Sandweg Trad
68
SX V Schartenweg Trad
69
SX VI Schartenweg (oU) Trad

without support

70
SX VIIIa Schaukelstuhl Trad
71
SX VIIIb Schluchtkante Trad
72
SX VIIIa Schluchtwand Trad
73
SX V Schluchtweg Trad
74
SX VIIIb Schöne Wand (RP) Trad

red point

75
SX VIIIc Schönheitspreis (RP) Trad

red point

76
SX VIIc Schwarze Rampe Trad
77
SX IXb Sitzkrieg Trad
78
SX VIIb Sonnenwendweg Trad
79
SX VIIIa Speckverschneidung Trad
80
SX IXb Stirnkante Trad
81
SX VIIa Stollepfeiler Trad
82
SX VIIc Stollepfeiler (oU) Trad

without support

83
SX VIIIa Südwand Trad
84
SX VIIa Talseite Trad
85
SX IV Trautmannweg Trad
88
SX IXa Volkssport Trad
90
SX III wächterkamin Trad
91
SX Xa Walpurgisnacht Trad
92
SX VIIa Weg ins Mittelalter Trad
93
SX VIIa Wurstkamin Trad
94
SX VIIa Zickzackkurs Trad