A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Breite-Kluft-Wand 27 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.222630, 50.906470

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Aprilschauer VIIIcTrad
2 Bergweg III/2Trad
3 Direkte Nordwand IXaTrad
4 Direkte Südspur VIIIbTrad
5 Glückstreffer VIIcTrad
6 Harmonie IXcTrad
7 Harmonischer Ausklang IXbTrad
8 Hilly-Billy VIIIbTrad
9 Honky-Tonky XcTrad
10 Kratzer IXcTrad
11 Letzter Kamin IITrad
12 Linksweg VIIIaTrad
13 Mundgeruch im Einweckglas IXbTrad
14 Nervenkrieg VIIbTrad
15 Nordkamin IIITrad
16 Nordverschneidung IIITrad
17 Nordwand VIIaTrad
18 Regenweg IVTrad
19 Schöne Kletterei (RP)

red point

VIIIcTrad
20 Sprung ins Ungewisse (RP)

red point

XbTrad
21 Südostweg VIIbTrad
22 Südriß VIIbTrad
23 Südspur VIIIaTrad
24 Talseite VITrad
25 Tohuwabohu IXbTrad
26 Unter Strom IXbTrad
27 Vorfreude (RP)

red point

VIIIcTrad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
II Letzter Kamin Trad
III Nordkamin Trad
Nordverschneidung Trad
III/2 Bergweg Trad
IV Regenweg Trad
VI Talseite Trad
VIIa Nordwand Trad
VIIb Nervenkrieg Trad
Südostweg Trad
Südriß Trad
VIIc Glückstreffer Trad
VIIIa Linksweg Trad
Südspur Trad
VIIIb Direkte Südspur Trad
Hilly-Billy Trad
VIIIc Aprilschauer Trad
Schöne Kletterei (RP) Trad
Vorfreude (RP) Trad
IXa Direkte Nordwand Trad
IXb Harmonischer Ausklang Trad
Mundgeruch im Einweckglas Trad
Tohuwabohu Trad
Unter Strom Trad
IXc Harmonie Trad
Kratzer Trad
Xb Sprung ins Ungewisse (RP) Trad
Xc Honky-Tonky Trad