A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Dornröschen 22 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.250300, 50.903158

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg IITrad
2 Dornenhecke (RP)

red point

3 Erlösung XaTrad
4 Gebrüder Grimm XbTrad
5 Geburtstagsweg IITrad
6 Gute Fee VIIIcTrad
7 Humusrinne IITrad
8 Jahrhundertschlaf VIIIaTrad
9 Jahrhundertschlaf (von Block) VIIIaTrad
10 Kletterröschen IXaTrad
11 Kluftweg IITrad
12 Nordkamin IIITrad
13 Nordrinne VIIaTrad
14 Onkel Hotte VIIaTrad
15 Schlafwandler VIIIcTrad
16 Schluchtriss VIIaTrad
17 Südverschneidung VITrad
18 Südwestweg IITrad
19 Tentakel XcTrad
20 Unbequemer Umstieg VIIIaTrad
21 Wachgeküßte VIIbTrad
22 Winkelweg IITrad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
II Alter Weg Trad
Geburtstagsweg Trad
Humusrinne Trad
Kluftweg Trad
Südwestweg Trad
Winkelweg Trad
III Nordkamin Trad
VI Südverschneidung Trad
VIIa Nordrinne Trad
Onkel Hotte Trad
Schluchtriss Trad
VIIb Wachgeküßte Trad
VIIIa Dornenhecke (RP) Trad
Jahrhundertschlaf Trad
Jahrhundertschlaf (von Block) Trad
Unbequemer Umstieg Trad
VIIIc Gute Fee Trad
Schlafwandler Trad
IXa Kletterröschen Trad
Xa Erlösung Trad
Xb Gebrüder Grimm Trad
Xc Tentakel Trad