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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Alter Weg
II
Trad
2 AV zum Hohen Kamin
IV
Trad
3 Calypso
VIIIc
Trad
4 Direkter Elbtalpfeiler
VIIIa
Trad
5 Elbtalpfeiler
VIIIa
Trad
6 Faustpfand (RP)

red point

VIIIa
Trad
7 Gerät
Xa
Trad
8 Gig oder Gag
VIIIa
Trad
9 Herbstwand
VIIb
Trad
10 Hoher Kamin
II
Trad
11 Leichter Weg
II
Trad
12 Maß aller Dinge (RP)

red point

VIIIb
Trad
13 Neuer Schartenweg
V
Trad
14 Neuer Südwestweg
IV
Trad
15 Nordweg
VIIa
Trad
16 Reinhardtsdorfer Weg
VIIb
Trad
17 Schartenweg
III
Trad
18 Schrammsteinblick
VIIIb
Trad
19 Südkante
VIIa
Trad
20 Südostriß
VIIa
Trad
21 Südwestriß
IV
Trad
22 Südwestwand
VIIb
Trad
23 Südwestwand (oU)

without support

VIIc
Trad
24 Südwestweg
IV
Trad
25 Unter uns
VIIIa
Trad
26 Variante zum Neuen Schartenweg
V
Trad
27 Variante zum neuen Südwestweg
IV
Trad
28 Westkante
VIIa
Trad
29 Westweg
III
Trad
30 Zum Abschluß
VIIIa
Trad