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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX I Alter Weg Trad
2
SX VIIb Anlieger Trad
3

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4
SX VIIIa Berggeiststiege Trad
5
SX IXb Bergwolf Trad
6
SX Xa Daumenschrauben Trad
7
SX VIIa Dieckmannweg Trad
8
SX VIIIc Direcktverbindung Trad
11
SX III Dunkelkammer Trad
12

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13

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14
SX VIIIc/3 Flüchtlingsgespräche Trad
15
SX VIIIa Fluchtwand Trad
16
SX VIIc Fluchtzwerg Trad
17
SX IXb Frühjahrsboten Trad
18
SX VIIa Gamsspitzlerweg Trad
19
20
SX Xa Godzilla Trad
21
SX VIIa Häntzschelweg Trad
23
SX IXb Kaltes Herz Trad
24
SX VIIIa Kurze Begradigung Trad
25
SX VIIIb Lange Begradigung Trad
26
SX IXa Monte Christo (RP) Trad

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27
SX V Nordweg Trad
28
SX VIIb Osterweg Trad
29
SX VIIb Patina Trad
30
SX VIIIa Pfeilervariante Trad
31
SX VIIa Rechte Variante Trad
32
SX VIIc Regenvariante Trad
33
SX VIIIa Reibungsvariante Trad
34
SX III Schartenweg Trad
35
SX IXb Sonnenstich Trad
36
SX Xa Streckbank Trad
37
SX VI Südostweg Trad
38
SX VIIIc Südwand Trad
39
SX VIIa Südwestkante Trad
40

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41
SX VIIc Überdachter Riß Trad
46
SX VIIb Verbindungsvariante Trad
47
SX IXa/3 Verfolgungswahn (RP) Trad

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48
SX VIIIb Verlorener Schlüssel Trad
49
SX IXc Warm ums Herz (RP) Trad

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50
SX IXa Westkante Trad
51
SX IV Westweg Trad
52
SX VIIIa/3 Wolpertinger Trad