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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} I Alter Weg Trad
2
{SX} VIIb Anlieger Trad
3
{SX} Xb Auf der Flucht (RP) Trad

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4
{SX} VIIIa Berggeiststiege Trad
5
{SX} IXb Bergwolf Trad
6
{SX} Xa Daumenschrauben Trad
7
{SX} VIIa Dieckmannweg Trad
8
{SX} VIIIc Direcktverbindung Trad
9
{SX} VIIIa Direkte Berggeiststiege Trad
10
{SX} VIIb Direkter Häntzschelweg Trad
11
{SX} III Dunkelkammer Trad
12

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13

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14
{SX} VIIIc 3 Flüchtlingsgespräche Trad
15
{SX} VIIIa Fluchtwand Trad
16
{SX} VIIc Fluchtzwerg Trad
17
{SX} IXb Frühjahrsboten Trad
18
{SX} VIIa Gamsspitzlerweg Trad
19
{SX} V Gipfelstürmerweg Trad
20
{SX} Xa Godzilla Trad
21
{SX} VIIa ** Häntzschelweg Mixed 5 4

FA: Willy Häntzschel, K. Schmidtgen & C. Rau, 30th Jul

23
{SX} IXb Kaltes Herz Trad
24
{SX} VIIIa Kurze Begradigung Trad
25
{SX} VIIIb Lange Begradigung Trad
26
{SX} IXa Monte Christo (RP) Trad

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27
{SX} V Nordweg Trad
28
{SX} VIIb Osterweg Trad
29
{SX} VIIb Patina Trad
30
{SX} VIIIa Pfeilervariante Trad
31
{SX} VIIa Rechte Variante Trad
32
{SX} VIIc Regenvariante Trad
33
{SX} VIIIa Reibungsvariante Trad
34
{SX} III Schartenweg Trad
35
{SX} IXb Sonnenstich Trad
36
{SX} Xa Streckbank Trad
37
{SX} VI Südostweg Trad
38
{SX} VIIIc Südwand Trad
39
{SX} VIIa Südwestkante Trad
40
{SX} IXa Super-Dieckmann (RP) Trad

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41
{SX} VIIc Überdachter Riß Trad
42
46
{SX} VIIb Verbindungsvariante Trad
47
{SX} IXa 3 Verfolgungswahn (RP) Trad

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48
{SX} VIIIb Verlorener Schlüssel Trad
49
{SX} IXc Warm ums Herz (RP) Trad

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50
{SX} IXa Westkante Trad
51
{SX} IV Westweg Trad
52
{SX} VIIIa 3 Wolpertinger Trad