Gamsturm Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Table of contents

1. Gamsturm 19 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.902925, 14.250478

access issues

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.

inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

ethic

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

• Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
• No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
• No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
• no chalk, no pof
• Sign the summit register.
• Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
• Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
• Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

2. Index by grade

Grade		Stars	Name	Style	Pop
III			Alter Weg	Trad
IV			Alter Weg Variante	Trad
V			Schartenriss	Trad
			Schartenweg	Trad
VI			!Westkante	Trad
VIIa			Querweg	Trad
		★	Südwestwand	Trad
			Talweg	Trad
VIIb			Südweg	Trad
VIIIa			Grünes Eis	Trad
VIIIb		★	Ostgrat	Trad
			Quertreiber	Mixed trad 3
VIIIc		★	Kreidezeit	Mixed trad 7
			Sediment	Mixed trad 7
			Urgestein	Mixed trad 6
IXa			Alteisen und Edelstahl	Mixed trad 5
			Gamsbart	Mixed trad 5
			Urgestein direkt	Mixed trad 8
IXb			Mauersegler	Trad