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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX IV Abzweig Trad
2
SX III Alter Weg Trad
3
SX VI Alter Weg (oU) Trad

without support

4
SX IXb Arriba (RP) Trad

red point

6
SX VIIa Center Court Trad
7
SX VIIb Direkte Südwestwand Trad
8

without support

9
SX VIIc EV zur Reibungswand Trad
10
SX VIIIa Feierabendstiege Trad
11
SX VIIc Herbstregen Trad
12
SX VIIIc Hotline (RP) Trad

red point

14
SX VIIIa Knie (RP) Trad

red point

15
SX VIIa Minihangel Trad
16
SX V Morsche Rippe Trad
17
SX IV Neuer Nordweg Trad
18
SX III Nordostkamin Trad
19
SX VIIa Nordostkante Trad
20
SX III Nordweg Trad
21
SX VIIb Nordwestwand Trad
22
SX IXa Ohne Abschluß Trad
23
SX IV Ostweg Trad
24
SX VIIb Pfingstweg Trad
25
SX VIIb Reibungswand Trad
26
SX VIIc Reibungswand (oU) Trad

without support

27
SX VIIIa Riüßberhang Trad
28
SX IV Schluchtweg Trad
29
SX VIIIc Schlußfahrt Trad
30
SX VIIc Slalom Trad
31
SX III Südostkamin Trad
32
SX IV Südriß Trad
33
SX IV Südweg Trad
34
SX VIIa Südwestkante Trad
35
SX VIIc Südwestwand Trad
36
SX III Südwestweg Trad
37
SX III/2 Süßer Sprung Trad
38
SX VIIc Talweg Trad
39
SX VIIIa Tausendfüßler (RP) Trad

red point

40
SX VIIIc Warteschleife Trad
41
SX IV Westweg Trad
42
SX IV Winkelriß Trad
43
SX VIIb Zwillingsweg Trad