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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
IV Abzweig Trad
2
III Alter Weg Trad
3

without support

4
IXb Arriba (RP) Trad

red point

6
VIIa Center Court Trad
8

without support

10
VIIIa Feierabendstiege Trad
11
VIIc Herbstregen Trad
12
VIIIc Hotline (RP) Trad

red point

14
VIIIa Knie (RP) Trad

red point

15
VIIa Minihangel Trad
16
17
18
III Nordostkamin Trad
19
VIIa Nordostkante Trad
20
III Nordweg Trad
21
VIIb Nordwestwand Trad
22
IXa Ohne Abschluß Trad
23
IV Ostweg Trad
24
VIIb Pfingstweg Trad
25
VIIb Reibungswand Trad
26

without support

27
VIIIa Riüßberhang Trad
28
IV Schluchtweg Trad
29
VIIIc Schlußfahrt Trad
30
VIIc Slalom Trad
31
III Südostkamin Trad
32
IV Südriß Trad
33
IV Südweg Trad
34
VIIa Südwestkante Trad
35
VIIc Südwestwand Trad
36
III Südwestweg Trad
37
III 2 Süßer Sprung Trad
38
VIIc Talweg Trad
39

red point

40
VIIIc Warteschleife Trad
41
IV Westweg Trad
42
IV Winkelriß Trad
43
VIIb Zwillingsweg Trad

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