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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} IV Alter Weg Trad
2
{SX} IXa Anaconda Trad
3
{SX} V Aus der Kluft Trad
4
{SX} VIIc Außenlinie Trad
5
{SX} VIIIc Blätterwirbel Trad
6
{SX} VIIIb Buchenweg Trad
7
{SX} VIIIa Direkte Griffige Wand Trad
8
{SX} VIIc Direkter Südweg Trad
9
{SX} IXb Einfaltspinsel Trad
10
{SX} VIIIb Feuervogel (RP) Trad

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11
{SX} VIIa Freistil Trad
12
{SX} VIIIc Glanz (RP) Trad

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13
{SX} VIIIb Gloria Trad
14
{SX} VIIIa Griff ins Leere Trad
15
{SX} VIIa Griffige Wand Trad
16
{SX} VIIb Hauptweg Trad
17
{SX} IXa Hintertür Trad
18
{SX} III Höhlenweg Trad
19
{SX} VI Holzweg Trad
20
{SX} VIIb Holzwurm Trad
21
{SX} VIIIa Menü Trad
22
{SX} VIIc Mittellinie Trad
23
{SX} VIIIa Nebenweg Trad
24
{SX} IV Nordriß Trad
25
{SX} VIIc Nordwestkante Trad
26
{SX} VIIIb Parallelverschiebung Trad
27
{SX} VIIIa Randbemerkung Trad
28
{SX} VIIc Rechtsaußen Trad
29
{SX} VIIa Rinnenfolge Trad
30
{SX} IV Schartenriß Trad
31
{SX} IV Schräger Kamin Trad
32
{SX} VIIIc Spätlese Trad
33
{SX} IXa Spielstraße Trad
34
{SX} VIIa Südweg Trad
35
{SX} IV Tunnelriß Trad
36
{SX} II Tunnelweg Trad
37
{SX} VIIc Variante zum Hauptweg Trad
38
{SX} VIIc Variante zum Südweg Trad
39
{SX} VIIIb Westwand (RP) Trad

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40
{SX} VIIIc Yetis Spur Trad