Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX IV Alter Weg Trad
2
SX VIIIc Botanischer Garten Trad
3
SX VIIIc Bunte Blätter Trad
6
SX VIIa Direkter Südostweg Trad
7
SX VIIc Goldener Herbst Trad
8
SX Xa Grand mit Zweien Trad
9
SX VIIb Halte durch ! Trad
10
SX VIIIb Handspiel Trad
11
SX V Kesselweg Trad
12
SX VIIIc Kreuzfahrt Trad
13
SX VIIb Neuer Talweg Trad
14
SX VIIc Neuer Weg Trad
15
SX V Nordweg Trad
16
SX III Nordwestweg Trad
17
SX IXb Null ouvert Trad
18
SX IXa Ohne Biwak Trad
19
SX IXa Omaspiel Trad
20
SX VIIc Ostkante Trad
21
SX VIIb Ostweg Trad
22
SX VIIIa Pfingsttour Trad
23
SX VIIa Querhangel Trad
24
SX V Schartenriß Trad
25
SX VIIa Südostweg Trad
26
SX V Südwestkante Trad
27
SX VIIa Talweg Trad
28
SX IXa Uns geht's gut Trad
29
SX VIIb Urlaubsweg Trad
31
SX VIIIc Wandflucht Trad
32
SX IXc Zentrum Trad
34
SX VIIIc Neue Wenzelwand (RP) Trad

red point

35

red point

36

without support