A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Schadeturm 23 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.249691, 50.902666

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg IIITrad
2 Briefkasten VIIaTrad
3 Engpaß IXaTrad
4 Grünspan VIIIbTrad
5 Neuer Pfeilerweg VTrad
6 Neuer Pfeilerweg (oU)

without support

VIIaTrad
7 Nordwestriß VIIcTrad
8 Norwestweg IITrad
9 Oberer Weg IITrad
10 Ostweg IIITrad
11 Pfeilerweg VTrad
12 Schadenersatz IXaTrad
13 Südbandage VIIIcTrad
14 Südostpfeiler (RP)

red point

IXaTrad
15 Südriß VIIbTrad
16 Träumerle VIIIcTrad
17 Traumlos IXaTrad
18 Traumsicht IXaTrad
19 Variante VIIaTrad
20 Variante zum Neuen Pfeilerweg VIIaTrad
21 Variante zum Nordwestweg IITrad
22 Variante zum Oberen Weg IITrad
23 Volle Konzentration XaTrad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
II Norwestweg Trad
Oberer Weg Trad
Variante zum Nordwestweg Trad
Variante zum Oberen Weg Trad
III Alter Weg Trad
Ostweg Trad
V Neuer Pfeilerweg Trad
Pfeilerweg Trad
VIIa Briefkasten Trad
Neuer Pfeilerweg (oU) Trad
Variante Trad
Variante zum Neuen Pfeilerweg Trad
VIIb Südriß Trad
VIIc Nordwestriß Trad
VIIIb Grünspan Trad
VIIIc Südbandage Trad
Träumerle Trad
IXa Engpaß Trad
Schadenersatz Trad
Südostpfeiler (RP) Trad
Traumlos Trad
Traumsicht Trad
Xa Volle Konzentration Trad