A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Schadeturm 23 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.249691, 50.902666

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg III Trad
2 Briefkasten VIIa Trad
3 Engpaß IXa Trad
4 Grünspan VIIIb Trad
5 Neuer Pfeilerweg V Trad
6 Neuer Pfeilerweg (oU)

without support

VIIa Trad
7 Nordwestriß VIIc Trad
8 Norwestweg II Trad
9 Oberer Weg II Trad
10 Ostweg III Trad
11 Pfeilerweg V Trad
12 Schadenersatz IXa Trad
13 Südbandage VIIIc Trad
14 Südostpfeiler (RP)

red point

IXa Trad
15 Südriß VIIb Trad
16 Träumerle VIIIc Trad
17 Traumlos IXa Trad
18 Traumsicht IXa Trad
19 Variante VIIa Trad
20 Variante zum Neuen Pfeilerweg VIIa Trad
21 Variante zum Nordwestweg II Trad
22 Variante zum Oberen Weg II Trad
23 Volle Konzentration Xa Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
II Norwestweg Trad
Oberer Weg Trad
Variante zum Nordwestweg Trad
Variante zum Oberen Weg Trad
III Alter Weg Trad
Ostweg Trad
V Neuer Pfeilerweg Trad
Pfeilerweg Trad
VIIa Briefkasten Trad
Neuer Pfeilerweg (oU) Trad
Variante Trad
Variante zum Neuen Pfeilerweg Trad
VIIb Südriß Trad
VIIc Nordwestriß Trad
VIIIb Grünspan Trad
VIIIc Südbandage Trad
Träumerle Trad
IXa Engpaß Trad
Schadenersatz Trad
Südostpfeiler (RP) Trad
Traumlos Trad
Traumsicht Trad
Xa Volle Konzentration Trad