Schadeturm Cliff guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Campbell Gome

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Schadeturm 23 in Cliff
2. Index by grade

1. Schadeturm 23 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.249691, 50.902666

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
no chalk, no pof
Sign the summit register.
Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Alter Weg	III	Trad
2	Briefkasten	VIIa	Trad
3	Engpaß	IXa	Trad
4	Grünspan	VIIIb	Trad
5	Neuer Pfeilerweg	V	Trad
6	Neuer Pfeilerweg (oU) without support	VIIa	Trad
7	Nordwestriß	VIIc	Trad
8	Norwestweg	II	Trad
9	Oberer Weg	II	Trad
10	Ostweg	III	Trad
11	Pfeilerweg	V	Trad
12	Schadenersatz	IXa	Trad
13	Südbandage	VIIIc	Trad
14	Südostpfeiler (RP) red point	IXa	Trad
15	Südriß	VIIb	Trad
16	Träumerle	VIIIc	Trad
17	Traumlos	IXa	Trad
18	Traumsicht	IXa	Trad
19	Variante	VIIa	Trad
20	Variante zum Neuen Pfeilerweg	VIIa	Trad
21	Variante zum Nordwestweg	II	Trad
22	Variante zum Oberen Weg	II	Trad
23	Volle Konzentration	Xa	Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade	Name	Style
II	Norwestweg	Trad
	Oberer Weg	Trad
	Variante zum Nordwestweg	Trad
	Variante zum Oberen Weg	Trad
III	Alter Weg	Trad
	Ostweg	Trad
V	Neuer Pfeilerweg	Trad
	Pfeilerweg	Trad
VIIa	Briefkasten	Trad
	Neuer Pfeilerweg (oU)	Trad
	Variante	Trad
	Variante zum Neuen Pfeilerweg	Trad
VIIb	Südriß	Trad
VIIc	Nordwestriß	Trad
VIIIb	Grünspan	Trad
VIIIc	Südbandage	Trad
	Träumerle	Trad
IXa	Engpaß	Trad
	Schadenersatz	Trad
	Südostpfeiler (RP)	Trad
	Traumlos	Trad
	Traumsicht	Trad
Xa	Volle Konzentration	Trad

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Cliff Guide for Schadeturm

Warning

Contributors

Table of contents

1. Schadeturm 23 routes in Cliff

2. Index by grade