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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Alberner Aufstieg
VIIb
Trad
2 Alter Weg
IV
Trad
3 AV zum Talweg
VIIc
Trad
4 Der Sommer ist für alle da
VIIIb
Trad
5 Direkter Nordostweg
VIIb
Trad
6 Direkter Talweg
VIIIc
Trad
7 Etwas besonderes
VIIc
Trad
8 Jammerkante
VIIc
Trad
9 Jauchzerkante
VIIIb
Trad
10 Nichts Besonderes
VIIb
Trad
11 Nordostweg
VIIb
Trad
12 Nordweg
VIIa
Trad
13 Nordwestweg
IV
Trad
14 Rebus
VIIc
Trad
15 Riesenhangel
VIIb
Trad
16 Riesenpfeiler
VIIc
Trad
17 Stürmischer Tag
VIIIc
Trad
18 Südostkamin
V
Trad
19 Südostwand
VIIIb
Trad
20 Südostweg
V
Trad
21 Südostweg direkt
VIIa
Trad
22 Talweg
VIIa
Trad
23 Zierpflanzengärtner
VIIc
Trad