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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
I Alter Weg Trad
2
VIIc Atrium Trad
3
VIIc * Barthreibung Trad
4
VIIIb Barthreibung (oU) Trad

without support

6
VIIIc Direktvorlage Trad
7
VIIIa Dreitagebart Trad
8
IXb Drückeberger Trad
9
IXc Eierkopp Trad
10

red point

12
Xa Freistil Trad
13
VIIc Gamsenwand Trad
14
VIIIa Gamsenwand (oU) Trad

without support

15

red point

16
VIIb Halbmond Trad
17
IXc Hasenfuß Trad
18
VIIIa Hautnah Trad
19
VIIIb Hautnah (oU) Trad

without support

20
VIIa Innerer Weg Trad
22
IXa Keilschrift Trad
23
VIIa Keine Zukunft Trad
24
IXb Kindergeschrei Trad
25
VIIIa Kluftweg Trad
26

red point

28

without support

30
III Neuer Ostweg Trad
31
VIIb Nordostweg Trad
32
VIIb Nordpfeiler Trad
33
VI Nordweg Trad
34
VIIb Nordwestriß Trad
35
IV Nordwestweg Trad
36
VIIa Ostriß Trad
37
VIIb Ostriß (oU) Trad

without support

38
39
VIIIc Rückenlage (RP) Trad

red point

40

red point

41
IXc Salzstreifen Trad
42
IV Schartenweg Trad
43
VIIIb Schiefer Tod Trad
44
VIIIb Schluchtvariante Trad
45
VIIc Schräger Otto Trad
46
48
VIIc Südpfeiler Trad
49
VIIb Südriß Trad
50
VIIIc Südwand Trad
51
IV Südweg Trad
52
VIIIc Südwestpfeiler Trad
53
IV Südwestweg Trad
59
VIIc Verregneter Tag Trad
60
VIIb Vorlage Trad
61
62
IXc Zugzwang Trad
63

red point

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