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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} I Alter Weg Trad
2
{SX} VIIc Atrium Trad
3
{SX} VIIc Barthreibung Trad
4
{SX} VIIIb Barthreibung (oU) Trad

without support

6
{SX} VIIIc Direktvorlage Trad
7
{SX} VIIIa Dreitagebart Trad
8
{SX} IXb Drückeberger Trad
9
{SX} IXc Eierkopp Trad
10
{SX} IXc Endlösung (RP) Trad

red point

11
{SX} IXc Erinnerung an C.R. Trad
12
{SX} Xa Freistil Trad
13
{SX} VIIc Gamsenwand Trad
14
{SX} VIIIa Gamsenwand (oU) Trad

without support

15
{SX} IXc Gedenkweg 67 (RP) Trad

red point

16
{SX} VIIb Halbmond Trad
17
{SX} IXc Hasenfuß Trad
18
{SX} VIIIa Hautnah Trad
19
{SX} VIIIb Hautnah (oU) Trad

without support

20
{SX} VIIa Innerer Weg Trad
21
{SX} Xa Katers Hörnchen Trad
22
{SX} IXa Keilschrift Trad
23
{SX} VIIa Keine Zukunft Trad
24
{SX} IXb Kindergeschrei Trad
25
{SX} VIIIa Kluftweg Trad
26
{SX} IXc Linksgewinde (RP) Trad

red point

27
{SX} VIIb Mittlerer Nordwestweg Trad
28

without support

29
{SX} V Neuer Nordwestweg Trad
30
{SX} III Neuer Ostweg Trad
31
{SX} VIIb Nordostweg Trad
32
{SX} VIIb Nordpfeiler Trad
33
{SX} VI Nordweg Trad
34
{SX} VIIb Nordwestriß Trad
35
{SX} IV Nordwestweg Trad
36
{SX} VIIa Ostriß Trad
37
{SX} VIIb Ostriß (oU) Trad

without support

38
{SX} IXc Rechte Südwand Trad
39
{SX} VIIIc Rückenlage (RP) Trad

red point

40

red point

41
{SX} IXc Salzstreifen Trad
42
{SX} IV Schartenweg Trad
43
{SX} VIIIb Schiefer Tod Trad
44
{SX} VIIIb Schluchtvariante Trad
45
{SX} VIIc Schräger Otto Trad
46
{SX} Xb Schweigeminute Trad
48
{SX} VIIc Südpfeiler Trad
49
{SX} VIIb Südriß Trad
50
{SX} VIIIc Südwand Trad
51
{SX} IV Südweg Trad
52
{SX} VIIIc Südwestpfeiler Trad
53
{SX} IV Südwestweg Trad
54
56
{SX} VIIa Variante zumAlten Weg Trad
57
{SX} VIIb Verbindungsvariante Trad
59
{SX} VIIc Verregneter Tag Trad
60
{SX} VIIb Vorlage Trad
61
{SX} IXb Zeit des Dialogs Trad
62
{SX} IXc Zugzwang Trad
63

red point