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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX I Alter Weg Trad
2
SX VIIc Atrium Trad
3
SX VIIc Barthreibung Trad
4
SX VIIIb Barthreibung (oU) Trad

without support

6
SX VIIIc Direktvorlage Trad
7
SX VIIIa Dreitagebart Trad
8
SX IXb Drückeberger Trad
9
SX IXc Eierkopp Trad
10
SX IXc Endlösung (RP) Trad

red point

11
SX IXc Erinnerung an C.R. Trad
12
SX Xa Freistil Trad
13
SX VIIc Gamsenwand Trad
14
SX VIIIa Gamsenwand (oU) Trad

without support

15
SX IXc Gedenkweg 67 (RP) Trad

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16
SX VIIb Halbmond Trad
17
SX IXc Hasenfuß Trad
18
SX VIIIa Hautnah Trad
19
SX VIIIb Hautnah (oU) Trad

without support

20
SX VIIa Innerer Weg Trad
21
SX Xa Katers Hörnchen Trad
22
SX IXa Keilschrift Trad
23
SX VIIa Keine Zukunft Trad
24
SX IXb Kindergeschrei Trad
25
SX VIIIa Kluftweg Trad
26
SX IXc Linksgewinde (RP) Trad

red point

27
28

without support

29
30
SX III Neuer Ostweg Trad
31
SX VIIb Nordostweg Trad
32
SX VIIb Nordpfeiler Trad
33
SX VI Nordweg Trad
34
SX VIIb Nordwestriß Trad
35
SX IV Nordwestweg Trad
36
SX VIIa Ostriß Trad
37
SX VIIb Ostriß (oU) Trad

without support

38
SX IXc Rechte Südwand Trad
39
SX VIIIc Rückenlage (RP) Trad

red point

40

red point

41
SX IXc Salzstreifen Trad
42
SX IV Schartenweg Trad
43
SX VIIIb Schiefer Tod Trad
44
SX VIIIb Schluchtvariante Trad
45
SX VIIc Schräger Otto Trad
46
SX Xb Schweigeminute Trad
48
SX VIIc Südpfeiler Trad
49
SX VIIb Südriß Trad
50
SX VIIIc Südwand Trad
51
SX IV Südweg Trad
52
SX VIIIc Südwestpfeiler Trad
53
SX IV Südwestweg Trad
56
57
SX VIIb Verbindungsvariante Trad
59
SX VIIc Verregneter Tag Trad
60
SX VIIb Vorlage Trad
61
SX IXb Zeit des Dialogs Trad
62
SX IXc Zugzwang Trad
63

red point