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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Alter Weg
I
Trad
2 Atrium
VIIc
Trad
3 Barthreibung
VIIc
Trad
4 Barthreibung (oU)

without support

VIIIb
Trad
5 Direkter Südwestpfeiler
IXa
Trad
6 Direktvorlage
VIIIc
Trad
7 Dreitagebart
VIIIa
Trad
8 Drückeberger
IXb
Trad
9 Eierkopp
IXc
Trad
10 Endlösung (RP)

red point

IXc
Trad
11 Erinnerung an C.R.
IXc
Trad
12 Freistil
Xa
Trad
13 Gamsenwand
VIIc
Trad
14 Gamsenwand (oU)

without support

VIIIa
Trad
15 Gedenkweg 67 (RP)

red point

IXc
Trad
16 Halbmond
VIIb
Trad
17 Hasenfuß
IXc
Trad
18 Hautnah
VIIIa
Trad
19 Hautnah (oU)

without support

VIIIb
Trad
20 Innerer Weg
VIIa
Trad
21 Katers Hörnchen
Xa
Trad
22 Keilschrift
IXa
Trad
23 Keine Zukunft
VIIa
Trad
24 Kindergeschrei
IXb
Trad
25 Kluftweg
VIIIa
Trad
26 Linksgewinde (RP)

red point

IXc
Trad
27 Mittlerer Nordwestweg
VIIb
Trad
28 Mittlerer Nordwestweg (oU)

without support

VIIc
Trad
29 Neuer Nordwestweg
V
Trad
30 Neuer Ostweg
III
Trad
31 Nordostweg
VIIb
Trad
32 Nordpfeiler
VIIb
Trad
33 Nordweg
VI
Trad
34 Nordwestriß
VIIb
Trad
35 Nordwestweg
IV
Trad
36 Ostriß
VIIa
Trad
37 Ostriß (oU)

without support

VIIb
Trad
38 Rechte Südwand
IXc
Trad
39 Rückenlage (RP)

red point

VIIIc
Trad
40 Salz und Pfeffer (RP)

red point

Xb
Trad
41 Salzstreifen
IXc
Trad
42 Schartenweg
IV
Trad
43 Schiefer Tod
VIIIb
Trad
44 Schluchtvariante
VIIIb
Trad
45 Schräger Otto
VIIc
Trad
46 Schweigeminute
Xb
Trad
47 Spreizvariante zum Südwestweg
V
Trad
48 Südpfeiler
VIIc
Trad
49 Südriß
VIIb
Trad
50 Südwand
VIIIc
Trad
51 Südweg
IV
Trad
52 Südwestpfeiler
VIIIc
Trad
53 Südwestweg
IV
Trad
54 Variante zum Neuen Ostweg
VIIa
Trad
55 Variante zum Südwestweg
III
Trad
56 Variante zumAlten Weg
VIIa
Trad
57 Verbindungsvariante
VIIb
Trad
58 Verbindungsvariante zum Westpfeiler
VIIb
Trad
59 Verregneter Tag
VIIc
Trad
60 Vorlage
VIIb
Trad
61 Zeit des Dialogs
IXb
Trad
62 Zugzwang
IXc
Trad
63 Zwangsvollstreckung (RP)

red point

Xb
Trad